Soles of a Nomad

From Bhaktapur’s quiet courtyards to the smoky rituals at Pashupatinath, here’s how we explored the Kathmandu Valley—mistakes, marvels, and all.

The Kumari is a living goddess in Kathmandu—chosen young, revered deeply, and seen only briefly. But behind the silence, questions are waiting.

It started with a photo at the Taj Mahal. It ended with me in a freezing river while my daughters calmly watched. Welcome to karma, rafting edition.

The Buddha was born in Lumbini. I was reborn there too—around 3 a.m., soaked in sweat, dreaming of electricity. Let’s talk about rolling blackouts.

We entered Nepal past a silent line of trucks. What we didn’t realize was that the road told a story—a blockade, a border, and a country gasping for breath.

A practical guide to exploring Kathmandu: how to get there, where to stay, what to eat, and what to see. Street wisdom, slow travel tips, and momos included.

Once the royal heart of Nepal’s Kathmandu Valley, Bhaktapur is a city of brick, prayer, and stillness. It doesn’t dazzle. But it stays with you.

Once upon a backpacker’s budget, I wandered Nepal with a creaky wallet and a pack of momos. Things have changed—fees, forms, and guides required. Worth it? That’s complicated.

Kathmandu isn’t just a basecamp for Himalayan dreams. It’s a city of spirit, scars, and stories. I visited twice—once as a backpacker in 1999, once with my family after the devastating 2015 earthquake. What I found each time changed me.

My Friend in Namche Bazaar Making Friends Around the Language Barrier   I met the man in the above photograph in Namche Bazaar, Nepal....

A boyhood dream of tracking tigers leads instead to a nighttime rhino charge — and a chaotic run for survival in Nepal's Chitwan National Park.

In Nepal's sacred Pashupatinath, I watched life end on the ghats—and saw two boys collect a dead man's belongings from the river. What disturbed me most wasn't death itself, but what it made me question about my own life.