Soles of a Nomad

We came to Tissa for kottu and leopards. We found the best kottu we’ve ever had and took a gamble on spotting Yala’s elusive leopards. One succeeded. One didn’t. And that’s what makes travel worth it.

Some travelers scorn Sri Lanka’s stilt fishermen for posing for tourists. I disagree. Here’s why I happily paid—and why authenticity might be the most overrated travel value.

Ella, Sri Lanka, offered us rain, bad wifi, and a masterclass in the sublime art of doing nothing. Here’s how we got there, where we stayed, and where to find the best roti in town.

Sri Lanka promised curry breakfasts, blue whales, and gentle adventures. Instead, we found tuk tuk shakedowns, a resurrected jewel scam, and a train ride so crowded I balanced on one foot like a flamingo. Because travel.