Soles of a Nomad

The Kumari is a living goddess in Kathmandu—chosen young, revered deeply, and seen only briefly. But behind the silence, questions are waiting.

A practical guide to exploring Kathmandu: how to get there, where to stay, what to eat, and what to see. Street wisdom, slow travel tips, and momos included.

Once the royal heart of Nepal’s Kathmandu Valley, Bhaktapur is a city of brick, prayer, and stillness. It doesn’t dazzle. But it stays with you.

Once upon a backpacker’s budget, I wandered Nepal with a creaky wallet and a pack of momos. Things have changed—fees, forms, and guides required. Worth it? That’s complicated.

Kathmandu isn’t just a basecamp for Himalayan dreams. It’s a city of spirit, scars, and stories. I visited twice—once as a backpacker in 1999, once with my family after the devastating 2015 earthquake. What I found each time changed me.