Soles of a Nomad

A practical guide to exploring Kathmandu: how to get there, where to stay, what to eat, and what to see. Street wisdom, slow travel tips, and momos included.

Once the royal heart of Nepal’s Kathmandu Valley, Bhaktapur is a city of brick, prayer, and stillness. It doesn’t dazzle. But it stays with you.

In Nepal's sacred Pashupatinath, I watched life end on the ghats—and saw two boys collect a dead man's belongings from the river. What disturbed me most wasn't death itself, but what it made me question about my own life.