Somewhere between “character-building discomfort” and “why does my spine hate me,” I decided to travel with inflatable mattresses. You can laugh now—but after a few weeks of rock-hard beds, you’ll understand why this might be the smartest travel tip for the fussy and the aging.
Ella, Sri Lanka, offered us rain, bad wifi, and a masterclass in the sublime art of doing nothing. Here’s how we got there, where we stayed, and where to find the best roti in town.
