Soles of a Nomad

Delta lost our luggage on the way to Lima, Peru. What followed involved freezing mist, four airport trips, a pile of broken promises, and the slow unraveling of our faith in airlines—and humanity. A ridiculous and totally true travel disaster story.

We were hours into the remote drive from Pangong Lake to Turtuk when traffic just… stopped. A landslide had blocked the Shyok River road—possibly for hours, maybe overnight. But what started as frustration quickly turned into one of those surreal, unforgettable travel moments: glacial rivers, bubbling tea fires, and two dozen strangers riding our van like a mountain parade float. Because sometimes, the delay is the story.

Kochi challenged our lungs and won our hearts. In a city where the streets are cleaner than most of India but the air turns to ash by dawn, we found humor, irony, and unexpected beauty.

Sri Lanka promised curry breakfasts, blue whales, and gentle adventures. Instead, we found tuk tuk shakedowns, a resurrected jewel scam, and a train ride so crowded I balanced on one foot like a flamingo. Because travel.

After a week swinging in a hammock on Don Khon, it was time to head north to Vang Vieng. Our overland journey involved boats, minivans, a sleeper bus, and dodging more than one travel scam.

Vang Vieng, Laos was once the epicenter of booze-fueled tubing mayhem, but after a string of tourist tragedies, the party ended. Now it’s a peaceful spot for rock climbing, kayaking, and lazy river days with family. Because travel.

We left Mae La Oop thinking the journey to Mae Chaem would be simple. Instead, it involved standing on a truck bumper, climbing onto the roof, and riding through a mountain storm.

One shirt. Two armpits. Zero hot water. This is backpacker laundry done the hard way — with soap, sweat, and shivering.