Soles of a Nomad

Game drives, boat cruises, and a lizard robbing a crocodile’s nest—Queen Elizabeth National Park delivers all the unpredictability a safari should.

I traveled to Uganda to see the mountain gorillas. What I found in the forest was bigger than awe, bigger than photography—bigger than I expected.

Chimpanzee trekking in Uganda isn’t just wildlife watching—it’s a field report from behind the lines. This is what it feels like when they watch you back.