Soles of a Nomad

Visiting Amritsar is not for the faint of heart—but it is unforgettable. From searing heat to spiritual depth, here are the practical (and personal) tips we wish we’d known before arriving in Punjab’s most intense city.

Looking for the most beautiful village in the Himalayas? Turtuk, India is a remote, green oasis in the Karakoram Mountains—equal parts paradise and mystery. Read about our unforgettable journey to one of the last open villages near the India–Pakistan border.

We were hours into the remote drive from Pangong Lake to Turtuk when traffic just… stopped. A landslide had blocked the Shyok River road—possibly for hours, maybe overnight. But what started as frustration quickly turned into one of those surreal, unforgettable travel moments: glacial rivers, bubbling tea fires, and two dozen strangers riding our van like a mountain parade float. Because sometimes, the delay is the story.

Want to find your zen? Try riding shotgun on a Himalayan cliff road to Pangong Lake. You’ll breathe deeply, pray loudly, and maybe meet a herd of baby goats. This is travel in Ladakh at its wildest.

We followed the Indus River northwest, stopping at silent gompas and sleeping in a homestay beneath jagged peaks. Because travel—and also Pink Floyd.

Before we hit the high-altitude passes, we took a one-day road trip south of Leh to get a taste of Ladakh’s monasteries, scenery, and surprisingly flaky snow.

Before you visit Ladakh’s monasteries, take a moment to understand the spiritual roots, the political borders, and the people who live between them.

Leh might sit at the top of the world, but visiting it doesn’t have to leave you gasping. Here’s how we did it—cold nights, fixed taxi rates, and all.

I dreamed of staying in a houseboat on Dal Lake for years. It delivered everything I imagined—plus one of the worst meals I’ve ever had. Totally worth it.

When we traveled to Kashmir, tensions were high and headlines were grim. What we found was kindness, beauty, and a deeper understanding of what “safe” really means.

Shooting in Varanasi is like trying to compose a symphony in the middle of a parade. This Through the Lens post shows how five photos—each zoomed, framed, and simplified—capture quiet power in India’s loudest city.

A guide to Varanasi, India’s sacred and chaotic masterpiece—complete with a sunrise boat ride, cremation ghats, lassi breaks, and one heavy-hitting river.

From Bhaktapur’s quiet courtyards to the smoky rituals at Pashupatinath, here’s how we explored the Kathmandu Valley—mistakes, marvels, and all.

The Kumari is a living goddess in Kathmandu—chosen young, revered deeply, and seen only briefly. But behind the silence, questions are waiting.

It started with a photo at the Taj Mahal. It ended with me in a freezing river while my daughters calmly watched. Welcome to karma, rafting edition.

The Buddha was born in Lumbini. I was reborn there too—around 3 a.m., soaked in sweat, dreaming of electricity. Let’s talk about rolling blackouts.

We entered Nepal past a silent line of trucks. What we didn’t realize was that the road told a story—a blockade, a border, and a country gasping for breath.

A practical guide to exploring Kathmandu: how to get there, where to stay, what to eat, and what to see. Street wisdom, slow travel tips, and momos included.

Once the royal heart of Nepal’s Kathmandu Valley, Bhaktapur is a city of brick, prayer, and stillness. It doesn’t dazzle. But it stays with you.

Once upon a backpacker’s budget, I wandered Nepal with a creaky wallet and a pack of momos. Things have changed—fees, forms, and guides required. Worth it? That’s complicated.