Nuts and Bolts: Travel Tips for Finding the Best Uganda Safari for You
- Rand Blimes
- May 24
- 12 min read
Nuts and Bolts posts give you the practical information you need, but without stripping away the humor, mishaps, and little victories that make real travel what it is. These aren’t just guides. They’re how we actually did it—mistakes, triumphs, and all.
This page has some travel tips for going on a safari in Uganda to aid in planning your own trip. I travel mainly with my wife, and we usually love to simply wander and eat when we explore a new place, but, of course, we came to Uganda primarily for the animals (especially mountain gorillas). We were on safari in Uganda for a week in July, 2021. If your safari is significantly longer/shorter/with a different focus, you may have a very different experience.
Face to Face with the Forest King
I was crashing through the jungle with all the grace of a drunk warthog—sweating, stumbling, snagging on vines, and apologizing to branches that refused to apologize back. The forest was thick, wild, and utterly disinterested in my presence.
And then, suddenly, it opened.
A small clearing. A hush. And there—just a few meters away—he was.
I crouched, almost kneeling.
A silverback mountain gorilla, massive and unmoved, sitting like a monument carved from the earth itself. I dropped into a froze, breath caught somewhere in my chest, every instinct in me screaming don’t make eye contact—but I couldn’t help it. Those eyes.
Not threatening. Not curious. Just . . . intelligent. Quietly, deeply aware. The kind of gaze that looks through you, not at you.
His enormous hand gripped a cluster of saplings like they were grass blades. He didn’t fidget. He didn’t flinch. He sat with the weight of one who doesn’t need to prove a thing. Around him, his family rustled and foraged. Around me, the other humans barely existed. And to him? We didn’t exist at all. And that was good. That was right. You don’t want to be noticed by a silverback.
So I squatted. Hunched. Huddled. Humbled.
This was the moment. This was why I’d come to Uganda.
Where to See Mountain Gorillas: Uganda, Rwanda, or the DRC?
Our trip started with the desire to go see mountain gorillas in the wild—which is the only place you can see them. Mountain gorillas do not survive in captivity. The gorillas in zoos are all lowland gorillas.
There are only three countries in the world where you can see wild mountain gorillas: Uganda, Rwanda, and the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC). All three offer unforgettable encounters, but the experience—and the context—varies dramatically depending on where you go.
Let’s start with the DRC. Yes, Virunga National Park is home to some of the most important mountain gorilla populations on the planet. And yes, it’s the setting for stunning documentaries and conservation success stories. But it also comes with serious security concerns. Armed conflict, kidnappings, and periodic closures of the park make this a destination for only the most risk-tolerant traveler. If you're after reliability and peace of mind, this probably isn't your first pick.
That leaves Rwanda and Uganda, the two most popular—and stable—options. Both offer excellent gorilla trekking experiences, professional guides, and established tourism infrastructure. But there’s one major difference: price.
In Rwanda, a gorilla trekking permit costs $1,500 USD per person, a steep increase introduced in 2017. The goal, according to officials, was to position Rwanda as a high-end ecotourism destination. Translation: keep out the “riff raff.” And as someone who apparently falls squarely into that category, I chose not to give my money to a place that’s actively signaling it doesn’t want it.
Uganda, on the other hand, charges $800 USD per permit—still expensive, yes, but less than half the price of Rwanda. And Uganda is every bit as dedicated to conservation as Rwanda. Rwanda accomplishes its goal by gouging the rich. Uganda does it by developing community based travel. Again, to each their own, but one of those approaches appeals far more to me.
Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and Mgahinga Gorilla National Park offer equally breathtaking encounters, and the trekking experience is just as wild, raw, and intimate. It is real jungle—mud, mist, vines, and all. And the gorillas? They don’t care which border you crossed to find them.
So while all three countries are technically options, for us, the choice was clear. Uganda welcomed us with dense forest, “affordable” permits, and no judgment.
As a bonus, Uganda also offer the opportunity to visit chimpanzees (in places like Kibale Forest National Park), as well as a more traditional safari experience in Queen Elizabeth National Park.
Getting Around: Independent vs. Package Safari in Uganda
We’re not package tour people. We like our independence. In South Africa, where we did our first safari, self-drive is easy as pie—good roads, clear signage, and game parks that practically run themselves. Uganda? Not quite the same deal.
Driving conditions were rough. Navigation was rougher. Google Maps seemed to think some roads were still theoretical. And unless you’ve got a local co-pilot, a 4x4, and a healthy sense of humor, Uganda is not the place to wing it across the country.
And 2021 was still the tail end of covid. Uganda had restrictions on travel within the country. There were regular roadblocks with police checking for, something . . . I was less excited about navigating the road restriction than the actual roads.
That said, covid is over, and if your only goal is to see the gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, you can do it on your own. In fact, one of the smartest hacks is to fly into Kigali, Rwanda, rather than Entebbe (near Kampala). From Kigali, it’s only a 4–5 hour drive to Bwindi, compared to 9+ hours from Kampala. Just make sure to arrange your border crossing details in advance.
If you go this route, book a lodge near the park that offers help with transportation and logistics. Most of them can get you to the park headquarters on trek day and offer advice on timing, gear, and registration.
You’ll also need to secure your gorilla trekking permit ahead of time. These are issued by the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) and can be booked online through their official website (or via a trusted tour operator or lodge). Permits are $800 USD and must be purchased for a specific day and park sector. Availability is limited, so book early, especially if you have a tight schedule. Find info on the process here.
But for us, the gorillas weren’t the only goal. We wanted to visit the chimpanzees in Kibale, track lions in Queen Elizabeth National Park, and soak in the full variety of what Uganda’s wild had to offer. And the more I looked at the logistics—long drives, scattered parks, muddy roads, and confusing signage—the more it made sense to go with a package safari.
It wasn’t our usual style, but in Uganda, it was the right call.
Finding the Best Uganda Safari for Us
Once we decided that a self-drive safari in Uganda wasn’t the best idea, I turned to the internet for help. I’d read that a lot of travelers found their tours through SafariBookings.com, so I gave it a try. It’s a comparison site for African safaris, and honestly, it’s pretty great. You can filter by country, trip length, focus (gorillas, chimps, big game, etc.), and price range.
I used the search and filter tools to narrow things down to trips that fit what I wanted, when I wanted, and—critically—what I could afford. And that’s when I was surprised: a private safari for just my wife and me was actually fairly affordable. I had expected it to be wildly expensive, but it wasn’t. At least not in Uganda.
I narrowed it down to about five promising options and emailed each one with a short list of specific questions. Two of them replied promptly, thoroughly, and with exactly the kind of clarity I was hoping for. That was all I needed to know. I didn’t want to book with the company that had the best brochure—I wanted to book with the company that actually responded to their email. The responsiveness was more important to me than the actual answers to my questions.
Of the two finalists, I had a slight preference for a week-long itinerary offered by Magic Africa Safaris. So I booked it.
Here’s what we got: seven days, all transportation, lodging, meals, park fees, chimp permits, gorilla trekking permits, and—maybe most importantly—an absolutely outstanding driver-guide, all for $1,980 per person. Considering that just the permits alone account for more than half that price, I was genuinely thrilled with the value.
It wasn’t just affordable. It was smart. And it set us up for a truly special week.
Our One-Week Safari Itinerary in Uganda
Here’s how our week-long private safari with Magic Africa Safaris played out. Seven days, three national parks, one jaw-dropping gorilla encounter, and a whole lot of unforgettable adventure.
Day 1 – Arrival in Uganda
The plan was that we would land in Entebbe and be met by our driver-guide. After a short city tour in Kampala and a briefing on the week ahead, we would check into our first hotel to rest up for the real journey to begin.
In reality, a mix up with the kind of covid test we had delayed our trip and we missed this day entirely. It was fortunate that we had a highly responsive safari operator as they kept in close contact with us as our travel plans changed.
Day 2 – Drive to Kibale Forest National Park and Bigodi Swamp
We hit the road for Kibale Forest, with a stop for lunch in Fort Portal. Along the way we passed tea plantations, villages, and rolling green hills. We arrived in the late afternoon, got settled into our lodge on the edge of the forest, and then went out for a late afternoon through the Bigodi swamp, a community-run wetland reserve filled with birds and monkeys.
Day 3 – Chimp Trekking, then Transfer to Queen Elizabeth National Park
This was our first big wildlife experience—chimpanzee trekking in the morning. After lunch, we drove to Queen Elizabeth National Park, arriving in time to catch views over the savanna from our lodge.
Day 4 – Game Drive and Boat Cruise in Queen Elizabeth NP
A full safari day. We started with an early morning game drive and saw elephants, buffalo, warthogs, but, sadly, no big cats. In the afternoon, we cruised the Kazinga Channel, spotting hippos, crocs, and more elephants cooling off in the water. We even got to spy on a monitor lizard trying to raid the nest of a nearby (huge!) crocodile.
Day 5 – Tree-Climbing Lions in Ishasha, then on to Bwindi
We drove through the Ishasha sector, famous for its tree-climbing lions. Sadly, our luck was out and we failed to see these rare climbing cats. Then we drove west until the landscape changed dramatically as we headed into the misty hills of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.
Day 6 – Gorilla Trekking in Bwindi, then Transfer to Lake Bunyonyi
The big one. We were up early for our gorilla trekking briefing, then off into the jungle. We trekked through tea-covered hills and through thick forest and steep terrain before finally coming face to face with a silverback and his family—an experience beyond words. In the afternoon, we transferred to the beautiful lakeside town of Lake Bunyonyi, often called the “Switzerland of Africa.”
Day 7 – Return to Kampala/Entebbe
We made the long drive back, with a stop at the Equator line for lunch and obligatory photo ops. We arrived in Entebbe in the evening and wrapped up the trip, exhausted, exhilarated, and deeply grateful.
Weather and When to Go
Uganda straddles the equator, but don’t let that fool you into expecting steamy jungle heat all year round. Thanks to its elevation and varied terrain, the weather is often surprisingly cool and temperate, especially in the southwest where the gorillas live.
There are two main dry seasons:
December to February
June to August
These months are generally considered the best time to visit, especially if you’re planning to do gorilla or chimpanzee trekking. Trails are drier (though never exactly dry), visibility is better, and you're less likely to be slipping and sliding through Bwindi with mud caked halfway up your calves.
The wet seasons—March to May and again from September to November—bring heavy rains, especially in the forested areas. Some travelers still go during these months for lower prices and fewer tourists, but trekking gets more difficult, and roads can turn from “bumpy” to “biblical.” Permits are the same price year-round, so there’s no budgetary advantage for gorilla tracking specifically.
Even in the dry season, be prepared for rain at any time in Bwindi and Kibale. This is rainforest, after all. A decent rain jacket and good hiking shoes are non-negotiable. You may also want some gaiters, which not only keep mud out of your shoes, but biting insects as well.
We went in July, during the dry season, and while we still got a little rain, we were glad for the clearer trails, better driving conditions, and more predictable weather windows for trekking.
Bottom line? If you want to maximize your chances of good trekking weather, aim for June to August or December to February. If you're feeling bold and don’t mind mud, you might just have the forest to yourself in the shoulder months.
Visa Requirements
Most travelers will need a tourist visa to enter Uganda, and the easiest way to get one is online through the official Uganda e-Visa portal. It’s a straightforward process—apply ahead of time, pay the fee, and carry a printed copy of your visa approval when you arrive.
If you're also visiting Rwanda or Kenya, consider applying for an East Africa Tourist Visa instead. It allows entry into all three countries on a single visa, which can be handy if you’re crossing borders (like flying into Kigali to access Bwindi).
Health Requirements
Uganda requires proof of Yellow Fever vaccination if you're arriving from a country with Yellow Fever risk—and sometimes even if you're not. It's a good idea to get the shot and bring your yellow card, just in case it’s checked at the border.
You’ll also want to talk to your doctor about malaria prevention, especially if you're visiting lowland areas like Queen Elizabeth National Park. We took anti-malarials and had no issues, but mosquitoes are definitely around, so pack repellent and long sleeves, too.
Money and Tipping
Uganda operates on the Ugandan shilling, but most safari operators quote and accept payments in USD, and ATMs are common in major towns. Make sure your bills are newer than 2009—older notes may not be accepted.
We ended up paying for the majority of our safari in Ugandan shillings, and it was a HUGE wad of cash. So, if you wanna feel like a baller . . .
Tipping is expected but not mandatory. If you’re happy with the service, a good rule of thumb is:
$10–20 USD per day for your driver-guide
$10–15 per person for gorilla or chimp trekking guides and porters
Cash is best, and local currency is appreciated for smaller tips.
What to Pack
You don’t need to bring your entire REI store with you, but gorilla trekking isn’t a casual stroll, either. At minimum, bring:
Good hiking boots, or shoes. I used trail runners, and they worked great.
Long pants and sleeves. Don’t even think about gorilla trekking in shorts.
Garden gloves (yes, really—grabbing onto vines and branches can get prickly)
Rain gear (jacket is best, not poncho). Or just avoid cotton clothing and wear tech fabrics that will keep you warm even if soaked.
Gaiters if you're going during rainy season, these are necessary. In the dry season they can still be handy to keep bugs out of your shoes (or just tuck your pants into your socks).
Layers for early morning chill and midday warmth
Booking Timeline
If gorilla trekking is a must-do, book early—especially during peak months (June to August and December to February). Uganda limits the number of daily gorilla permits, and they can sell out months in advance. The same goes for popular lodges near the trekking sectors.
We booked about five months ahead. The earlier you book, the better your choices—and your chances of avoiding disappointment.
Planning a safari in Uganda takes a bit more effort than clicking “book now” on a flight to Paris—but it’s worth every ounce of it. From the misty forests of Bwindi to the quiet hum of a boat on the Kazinga Channel, this trip gave us moments we’ll carry forever. Yes, the logistics require some navigating. Yes, the roads are bumpy. But if, because travel, you have the chance to come face to face with a silverback gorilla in the wild? That’s not just travel—that’s something rare, raw, and unforgettable.
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