Tips for Visiting the Ballestas Islands: What to Know Before You Go

Pelicans (etc.) adorn the cliffside in the Ballestas Islands

The Ballestas Islands are sometimes called the “poor man’s Galapagos.” The idea is that they offer a similar wildlife experience — just cheaper and easier to access.

Well… the Ballestas are the poor man’s Galapagos in the same way that cardboard is the poor man’s steak.

We haven’t been to the Galapagos, but this ain’t it.

That said — if you come expecting a modest wildlife experience, it can be a great little trip. Sea lions? Check. Penguins? Also check. Dramatic coastal rocks teeming with birds? Absolutely.

But come thinking you're about to experience Ecuador-level biodiversity, marine iguanas, and evolutionary epiphanies… and you're going to leave disappointed.

So What Are the Ballestas Islands, Anyway?

The Ballestas Islands are a cluster of rocky, guano-splattered islets bobbing just off the southern coast of Peru, near the town of Paracas. They’re uninhabited by humans (unless you count the occasional park ranger), but absolutely mobbed with wildlife — mostly birds, sea lions, and the occasional Humboldt penguin trying to look important.

Geologically, the islands are eroded remnants of the Paracas Peninsula — all jagged cliffs, stone arches, and sea caves. It’s the kind of place where waves crash dramatically and birds poop extravagantly.

Ecologically, the islands sit in the nutrient-rich waters of the Humboldt Current, one of the most productive marine ecosystems on earth. Cold water from the deep rises here, bringing nutrients that fuel massive blooms of plankton, which feed the fish, which feed... well, everyone and everything else. The result is a feathered frenzy of boobies, cormorants, pelicans, terns, and Inca terns (which are either birds or indie bands — hard to tell sometimes).

The always fashionable Inca tern, dressed to the nines, all in black with a Salvador Dalí, mustache

Also notable: the islands were once a major source of guano (a.k.a. bird poop gold), which was so valuable in the 19th century that wars were fought over it. Today, the guano is harvested in peaceful shifts by lucky workers in hazmat suits, once every few years.

So no, it’s not the Galapagos. But it is an honest little slice of wild Peru — loud, smelly, and full of life.

How to Visit the Ballestas Islands

Visiting the Ballestas Islands is easy and low-stress, especially by Peruvian travel standards. The jumping-off point is the small town of Paracas, which sits on the coast just a few hours south of Lima. You can get there via comfortable long-distance buses (Cruz del Sur, Peru Hop, etc.) in about 3.5–4 hours. If you're already down in Ica — the transportation hub for nearby Huacachina — you're even closer: Paracas is just an hour away by bus or taxi.

This makes it very easy to combine Huacachina and the Ballestas into one trip, which is exactly what we did. Think: sandboarding and sunset one day, sea lions and guano the next. Balance!

Once you’re in Paracas, you’ll find tour operators everywhere offering boat trips to the islands for less than $20 US. Most are clustered around the waterfront and main boulevard. You don’t need to book in advance unless you're traveling during a Peruvian holiday weekend or you're really set on a specific company. The standard tour is a 2-hour boat ride that circles the islands (you don’t land), usually leaving around 8:00 or 10:00 a.m.

Tours are cheap, cheerful, and basically identical. Boats are open-air, with everyone wearing life jackets and half the passengers aiming telephoto lenses at things that squawk.

You can also tack on extra experiences in Paracas if you’re feeling ambitious:

• Rent bikes and explore the Paracas National Reserve

• Visit the flamingo lookout (in season — usually July to October; although we were told there were not many to be seen when we visited in late July)

• Hike along dusty cliffs and Martian beaches in the reserve

• Book a combo tour with sandboarding or dune buggy rides if you're short on time and skipped Huacachina

In short: getting there is easy. Booking is easy. Seeing wildlife is easy. Just don’t expect a David Attenborough voiceover. Or a bathroom on the boat.

What You’ll See on a Ballestas Islands Tour

Before you even make it out of the harbor, you might spot dolphins riding the current like they own the place. We did. A chill pod arced through the water in Paracas' little harbor. No aerial acrobatics, but it is always great to see dolphins.

Then, just as you’re settling into your seat and adjusting your sun hat, the boat slows in front of an enormous hillside geoglyph: the Candelabra. This ancient design — etched into the sand high on the Paracas Peninsula — looks like a three-pronged trident, or maybe a cactus, or maybe the world’s oldest coat rack. Nobody really knows who made it or why. But if, like us, you skipped the Nazca Lines, this is your consolation prize. And honestly? It’s pretty cool.

From there, it’s on to the islands themselves. The Ballestas rise rugged and wild from the sea — all craggy cliffs, natural arches, and guano-stained rocks that smell exactly the way you’d expect from a place inhabited primarily by birds and sea lions. It’s loud. It’s messy. It’s alive.

Your captain will do their best to maneuver close enough to give everyone a decent view. We got up close to Humboldt penguins waddling along the rocks like little tuxedoed introverts, and a few sea lions lazing around like they’d just finished a buffet and had nowhere else to be. It wasn’t an all-out National Geographic moment, but it was satisfying.

Nesting penguins

Boobies — both blue-footed and Peruvian — were in attendance, as were pelicans, Inca terns, cormorants, and an absolute riot of other seabirds. The rocks were basically a feathery traffic jam. You may also see starfish, red crabs, or even more dolphins along the way if luck’s on your side.

To be clear: this is not a safari. It's a two-hour jaunt through a concentrated patch of coastal chaos, and what you see will depend on timing, season, and animal whims. But if you manage your expectations, it can be a genuinely enjoyable ride — part natural history, part sea-sprayed comedy show.

General Tips for Visiting the Ballestas Islands

What to Bring on the Boat Tour

Boat tours to the Ballestas are short and easy — but a little prep goes a long way. Here’s what we recommend bringing:

• Sunscreen – The sun hits hard out on the water, even on cloudy days.

• Hat and sunglasses – Maybe even something with a strap; boat wind is a real thing.

• Light jacket or windbreaker – It’s often breezy, especially in the morning.

• Binoculars – Optional, but great if you want to spot details on distant birds or cliffs.

• Camera with a zoom lens – The wildlife is mostly perched on rocks you won’t get close to.

• Motion sickness meds – If you’re prone to it, the open sea can be a bit jumpy.

You don’t need anything fancy, but you’ll enjoy it more if you’re prepared.

The world's sleepiest creature

Accessibility Notes

Most boats leave from a small dock in Paracas. Boarding is usually done via gangplank or step ladder, and the boats themselves are low-slung with bench seating. If you or someone in your group has mobility challenges, it’s worth asking your tour operator in advance how they assist with boarding and seating.

A Quick Word on Conservation

Visitors aren’t allowed to land on the Ballestas Islands — and honestly, that’s a good thing. The rocky terrain is home to fragile nesting sites and a whole ecosystem that does just fine without human shoes stomping through it. By staying on the boats, we help keep the wildlife wild. Don’t litter, don’t shout, and let the sea lions nap in peace.

So… Is It Worth It?

Yes — as long as you know what you’re signing up for. The Ballestas Islands won’t change your life, but they’re cheap, fun, and full of noisy animal drama. If you’re already in Paracas or nearby, this is a nice two-hour excursion. But don’t think you will feel like you no longer need to go to the Galapagos after visiting here.

Final Thoughts

You’re not going to have an evolutionary epiphany, coming face-to-face with an army of blue-footed boobies that changes your outlook on life. But you will see some animals, feel the wind in your face, and maybe laugh at a penguin slipping off a rock. That’s the kind of moment we chase — not because it’s perfect, but because travel will take what it can get.