Soles of a Nomad

For centuries, travelers arriving in Osh could count on one thing: the bazaar would be there. Empires rose and fell, but the market endured. So naturally, I managed to show up during the brief, perfectly timed moment in its long history when it wasn’t. Because travel, it turns out, has impeccable comedic timing.

Khiva is one of the most intact Silk Road cities in Central Asia, a place where massive mudbrick walls still enclose a living old town. This nuts-and-bolts guide covers when to go, how to get there, where to stay, what to eat, and how much time to spend—so you can slow down, wander the Itchan Kala, and experience Khiva at its best.