Nuts and Bolts: Travel Tips for Visiting Aguas Calientes, Peru
- Rand Blimes
- Jun 20
- 10 min read
Nuts and Bolts posts give you the practical information you need, but without stripping away the humor, mishaps, and little victories that make real travel what it is. These aren’t just guides. They’re how we actually did it—mistakes, triumphs, and all.
This page has some travel tips for visiting Aguas Calientes (AC) to aid in planning your own trip. I travel mainly with my wife, and we love to simply wander and eat when we explore a new place; however, we were in AC to visit Machu Picchu. We were in AC in July, 2024. If your trip to AC is significantly longer/shorter/with a different focus, you may have a very different experience.
Let’s get something straight: Aguas Calientes is not going to be the highlight of your Peru itinerary. It’s not charming like Cusco. It’s not majestic like Machu Picchu. And it’s definitely not somewhere you go for the food. But if you want to visit one of the most iconic ancient sites on earth, you’re probably going to pass through this little town clinging to the river at the bottom of a deep jungle gorge.
And that’s fine. Because Aguas Calientes does exactly what it needs to do: get people fed, showered, and pointed in the direction of Machu Picchu.
That said, it helps to know what you’re getting into. The town’s layout is a bit confusing at first glance (especially if you're arriving in the rain, which you might be), and the logistics of getting to Machu Picchu can feel more complicated than they need to be. So this post is here to walk you through all of it—from weather to transportation to that eternal question: is there anything actually good to eat here?
Spoiler: not really. But we’ll get to that.
Travel Tips for Visiting Aguas Calientes: Weather
Aguas Calientes sits tucked into the lush cloud forest at the edge of the Amazon, and its weather reflects that—humid, unpredictable, and nothing like the dry mountain air of Cusco. Despite being only a few hours away, the climate here feels like a different world.
There are technically two seasons: the dry season (roughly May through September) and the rainy season (October through April). But even in the so-called dry season, you should still expect mist, fog, and sudden downpours. Rain is always a possibility in Aguas Calientes. During the rainy season, those downpours just come more frequently and tend to last longer, sometimes turning trails to mud and fogging over the views at Machu Picchu.
The upside? The rainy season brings fewer tourists and a richer, greener landscape—which can feel like a trade worth making if you’re okay with getting a little wet.
Regardless of when you go, it’s smart to pack a light rain jacket or poncho, wear quick-drying clothes, carry dry bags to protect any sensitive camera gear you may have, and make peace with the idea that your shoes are probably going to get wet. That’s just part of the Aguas Calientes experience.
Getting to Aguas Calientes
Other than hiking in on the Inca Trail, there are basically two ways to get to Aguas Calientes—and they both involve a train. Your only real decision is where you get on and how much time (and money) you want to spend getting there.
Option 1: Take the train direct from Cusco
Both PeruRail and Inca Rail offer direct trains from Cusco’s San Pedro Station to Aguas Calientes. This is the easiest, most straightforward option: no transfers, no bus legs, no hopping between towns. You get on in Cusco, ride for a few hours, and step off right in Aguas Calientes.
Sounds ideal, right? Well, sort of.
The downside is that these direct trains are limited and often more expensive, especially in high season. Also, the journey takes longer than it should—because the train has to zigzag slowly out of Cusco to gain elevation before it can hit full speed.
Option 2: Take a bus or taxi to Ollantaytambo, then the train
This is the more common route. You take a bus, shared van (called a colectivo), or private taxi from Cusco to Ollantaytambo, which takes about 1.5–2 hours depending on traffic and road conditions. From there, you hop on a train to Aguas Calientes. Trains between Ollantaytambo and Aguas Calientes are frequent, fast, and generally a bit cheaper than the Cusco direct options.
You can just get yourself to Ollantaytambo (a town I wish I would have had more time in) and then pick up the train, or you can purchase a “bimodal” ticket from Cusco which combines the bus and train into one ticket (both IncaRail and PeruRail offer bimodal service). You will take the bus (generally a van rather than a true bus) to the train station in Ollantaytambo where you will be shepherded into a waiting area. There, you sit around wondering how you are supposed to know when to get your train, but someone will come around with a sign and let you know that your should follow them to the train.
Yes, this way is more moving parts. But it gives you flexibility, and a chance to see Ollantaytambo—which is actually a really charming town and home to some of the best Inca ruins in the Sacred Valley. This is the route most travelers (including us) end up taking.
Which train company should you use?
Honestly? It doesn’t matter.
PeruRail and Inca Rail are both perfectly fine. The differences are mostly in branding and design. The smart move is to choose whichever company has a departure time that works best for you.
The price? Yeah, it hurts.
Let’s be clear: you will get gouged. The train to Aguas Calientes is spectacularly overpriced for what it is. Having been to Egypt the year before, we were genuinely amazed at how overpriced everything surrounding Machu Picchu is. But there’s no getting around it. If you want to visit one of the world’s great archaeological sites, you’ll have to open your wallet and just deal with paying more than you really should need to.
And beware that there is a limit of 8 kilos of luggage on most trains. We left most of our luggage in Cusco for the two nights we spent in AC.
One last note: those all-glass train cars
Some travelers (so many!) spring for premium train cars with glass domes that give you panoramic views of the sky and mountains. It sounds cool, but I’ll be honest—I’ve never quite understood the appeal. The interesting stuff? It’s not straight up. It’s out to the side. Most regular train cars already have large panoramic windows that curve into the roof, and we didn’t find ourselves missing any views. It isn’t the blue sky that you gawk at in the Sacred Valley.
If you're on the fence, I say save the money. Sit back, enjoy the scenery, and maybe use the difference for a nice meal back in Cusco or Lima.
Getting Around Aguas Calientes and Reaching Machu Picchu
Getting Around Aguas Calientes
Getting around Aguas Calientes is easy: you walk. The town is tiny, and most of it is pedestrian-only, which is both charming and convenient. You’ll hear the occasional clatter of a luggage cart, but otherwise, it’s you and your feet.
The layout is simple. There are two main roads. One runs flat along the valley floor, parallel to the train tracks. Most of the hotels, shops, and restaurants are clustered here. It’s lively, walkable, and easy to navigate. The other road climbs steeply uphill from the train tracks. You’ll find more hotels up here, along with a few scenic viewpoints. It’s a bit of a climb, but not hard to figure out.
Despite the steep hills and winding paths, the town is compact and intuitive. Give it an hour, and you’ll have your bearings.
Getting from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu
You have two choices for getting from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu: hike or take the shuttle bus.
Option 1: Hiking up
Yes, it’s possible to hike to Machu Picchu from Aguas Calientes. The trail follows a steep series of switchbacks through the forest, essentially paralleling the bus road. The hike is around 8 km round-trip and takes most people 1.5 to 2 hours each way. It’s sweaty, steep, and lacks sweeping views. For most visitors, the energy is better saved for exploring the Machu Picchu ruins themselves.
Option 2: Taking the shuttle bus
This is the option most travelers choose. Buses run from Avenida Hermoas Ayar, near the Imperio de los Incas Bridge (you’ll recognize it by the long line forming in the pre-dawn hours and persisting most of the day). Buses operate from 5:30 AM to 3:30 PM, with return trips from Machu Picchu to Aguas Calientes from 6:00 AM to 6:00 PM.
The ride itself takes about 25–30 minutes and climbs a dramatic series of switchbacks. It’s not particularly scenic, but it gets the job done.
Tickets and logistics:
You must purchase your ticket in advance. You can’t just show up and pay the driver.
In theory, you can buy tickets online at Consettur’s official site. In practice, this often doesn’t work.
A more reliable option is to buy tickets in person. There’s a ticket office just uphill from the bus stop in Aguas Calientes. Bring your passport, as it's required.
You can also buy bus tickets in Cusco, but if you’re already in Aguas Calientes the day before your visit, buying in town is easy.
Expect to pay around 125 soles for a round-trip ticket.
Important tip:
If you want to arrive at Machu Picchu early, get to the bus line early. We showed up around 4:45 AM, and barely made it onto the first bus. But here’s a quirk: Bus #2 actually caught up to Bus #1 en route , meaning some of its passengers were through the gates before the tail end of the earlier bus. The lesson? You don’t have to be first, but you do have to be early.
Sleeping in Aguas Calientes for the Budget Conscious Traveler
Choosing where to sleep in Aguas Calientes is less about location and more about your tolerance for stairs. The town is tiny, and the key question you’ll want to answer is: do I really want to haul my bags uphill from the train station to get to my hotel?
We stayed at the Runas Inn, a simple place near the edge of town along the flat, lower road. Every now and then, a train would rattle by close enough to make conversation impossible for about 30 seconds. But trains don’t pass frequently on this stretch—they mostly terminate before reaching this point—and we didn’t hear anything late at night during our two-night stay.
Honestly, Aguas Calientes is small enough that most places are reasonably walkable to the bus stop, the restaurants, and the train station. So unless you're dealing with mobility issues or have bags the size of baby elephants (which you can’t bring on the train unless you buy them a ticket, so . . . ), focus on finding a hotel that fits your taste and budget. Whether you want something rustic, boutique, or just plain cheap, you’ll find it here—just maybe not all three in one.
What to eat in Aguas Calientes
Let’s be blunt: you don’t come to Aguas Calientes for the food.
We ate at a few different places during our stay. All of them were... fine. Not bad. Not good. Just fine. Nothing worth mentioning specifically. They were the kind of meals you forget about while you’re still chewing the last bite. If you’ve been eating your way through Peru—whether savoring ceviche in Lima or digging into alpaca steaks in Cusco—you’ll feel the drop-off. Aguas Calientes isn’t culinary Peru. It’s staging-area Peru.
There are plenty of restaurants packed into the small town, especially along the sloped road and around the main square. Many offer nearly identical menus: pizza, pasta, sandwiches, lomo saltado, a few grilled meats, and some version of a set menu with soup, a main, and maybe a watery juice. You’ll be warmly invited (sometimes rather persistently) to come inside, and you’ll be promised great deals and delicious food. The prices are tourist-inflated, the food is serviceable. That’s about the best you can hope for.
If you’re after something quick and cheap, a few panaderías and convenience shops around town offer empanadas, pastries, and snacks that might hit the spot after a long hike or while waiting for your train. And there are cafes where you can get a pain reasonable pain au chocolat. But if you’re a foodie hoping for a hidden gem in the shadow of Machu Picchu… temper your expectations (and let me know if you find something).
Fuel up, keep it simple, and remember why you came.
What To Do in Aguas Calientes (Besides Go to Machu Picchu)
Let’s be honest: Aguas Calientes exists for one reason—it's the base camp for Machu Picchu. That’s not to say there’s nothing to do here, but don’t expect a town brimming with must-see sights or vibrant cultural offerings. Most people arrive in the evening, eat a decent-enough meal, sleep, and catch the first bus up to the ruins the next morning. And that’s perfectly fine.
Still, if you find yourself with some free time—say, you're spending two nights or arrived earlier than expected—here are a few things to fill the hours:
Soak in the hot springs
The town’s name literally means “hot waters,” and there’s a basic public hot spring at the top of the hill. It’s not a luxury spa, but it’s a place to soak your legs after a long hike. The water is warm (not scalding), and you’ll be sharing the pools with other weary travelers. Don’t forget to bring a swimsuit and a towel—or you’ll have to rent them. We had planned to go here, but after hearing other travelers give poor opinions of the place, we opted out.
Wander the market
There’s a sprawling handicraft market near the train station that’s fun to browse even if you’re not shopping. It’s full of the usual suspects—alpaca goods, magnets, flutes, woven bags—but if you missed your chance to pick up souvenirs in Cusco, here’s your backup plan.
Sit by the river
Sometimes, the best thing to do in Aguas Calientes is nothing at all. The town is hemmed in by lush green cliffs and the rushing Urubamba River. Grab a bench or a drink and enjoy the setting—this isn’t a place you come back to for the attractions, but the atmosphere has its own kind of charm.
Final Thoughts on Aguas Calientes
Aguas Calientes isn’t a place you fall in love with. It’s a place you pass through. It’s overpriced, overbuilt, and overrun. But it is situated in a spectacular valley, and it’s also the last stop before you walk through the gates of Machu Picchu—and that gives it a certain kind of magic.
You’ll eat some forgettable meals. You’ll dodge a hundred souvenir stands all selling the same rainbow alpaca hoodie. You’ll wonder how a town with so many restaurants can still have no place you actually want to eat. But then you’ll wake up before dawn, shuffle through misty streets with anticipation buzzing in your chest, and board a bus that winds up through the cloud forest toward one of the most iconic places on earth.
That’s the contradiction you learn to live with—charming and frustrating, breathtaking and chaotic all at once—because travel isn’t about perfect places. It’s about messy in-between towns like this one, on the way to something unforgettable.
Comments