Nuts and Bolts: Travel Tips for Visiting Huaraz, Peru
- Rand Blimes
- Jun 15
- 13 min read
Updated: Jun 17
Nuts and Bolts posts give you the practical information you need, but without stripping away the humor, mishaps, and little victories that make real travel what it is. These aren’t just guides. They’re how we actually did it—mistakes, triumphs, and all.
This page has some travel tips for visiting Huaraz, Peru, to aid in planning your own trip. I travel mainly with my wife, and we love to simply wander and eat when we explore a new place. We were in Huaraz in July, 2024, for about a week. If your trip to Huaraz is significantly longer/shorter/with a different focus, you may have a very different experience.
The overnight bus from Lima rolled into Huaraz just as the sun lit up the jagged teeth of the Cordillera Blanca. I was tired, altitude-dizzy, and bundled in all my layers, but I was also grinning like a lunatic. Because this was it—the gateway to the most epic mountain adventures in Peru. Huaraz isn’t polished, and that’s part of the charm. You come here to hike, to feel small in front of glaciers, and to earn every blister. And, if you’re lucky, to eat some seriously good chicken when you finally stumble back into town.
Travel Tips for Visiting Huaraz: Weather
Huaraz sits high in the Peruvian Andes, at over 3,000 meters (nearly 10,000 feet), so no matter when you visit, you're going to want layers. Days can be warm in the sun, but mornings and evenings drop quickly into jacket territory. And if you're heading into the mountains (which you should), expect even colder temps—especially near glacial lakes or high passes.
I visited in July, which is the dead of winter in Peru, but it’s also the dry season in the Andes—and the best time to hike. Even at high elevations, trails were open and conditions were ideal: cold, yes, but with clear skies and stunning views. Just bring sun protection, because at altitude, the sun is no joke.
If you're planning serious trekking—like Laguna 69 or multi-day treks in the Cordillera Blanca—aim for May through September. Outside of that window, the rainy season kicks in and can make trails muddy, dangerous, or outright impassable. Winter may sound like a bad time to visit, but in the Andes, it’s prime hiking season.
Watch Out for Altitude Sickness (AMS)
Huaraz sits at over 3,000 meters (about 10,000 feet), which means your body is going to notice—especially if you're coming from sea level. Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) is a real risk here, and it can knock the wind out of even experienced travelers.
The symptoms of AMS usually start with heavy breathing, a dull headache, fatigue, dizziness, loss of appetite, or nausea—basically, it feels like your body is rebelling against everything fun. For most people, it’s just an uncomfortable annoyance that goes away with rest and hydration. But in rare cases, it can become serious, especially if symptoms worsen or include confusion, shortness of breath at rest, or persistent vomiting. Pay attention to your body. Don’t try to tough it out or push higher if you’re feeling really bad—descending and getting proper care can be essential.
Plan to take it easy your first day. That’s not just permission to lounge around and eat ceviche—it’s smart acclimatization. Go for a gentle walk, grab a good meal, drink lots of water, and resist the urge to tackle a big hike right away. Most travelers who get sick do so because they try to go too high too fast.
Hydration is key. The air is dry and the altitude dehydrates you faster than you realize. Drink more water than you think you need—and then drink some more.
If you're concerned, you can buy Diamox (acetazolamide) over the counter at any pharmacy in Huaraz. It helps your body acclimate more quickly and can reduce the severity of symptoms. If you’ve never used it before, ask the pharmacist or do a bit of reading to make sure it’s a good fit for you. If you choose to go on Diamox, you may feel a tingling in your fingers and toes, and it may impact the taste of such things as soda.
Most people feel better after a day or two, and once you’re acclimated, Huaraz becomes the perfect launch point for epic mountain adventures. But don’t expect to breathe easily unless you stay at altitude for a month or more. Just accept that stairs will kick your butt in Huaraz.
Getting to Huaraz
There’s no airport in Huaraz, which means unless you’ve got a private helicopter (and if you do, let’s talk), you’re probably taking the bus. The most common—and frankly most convenient—option is an overnight bus from Lima. We used Cruz del Sur, one of the more reputable and comfortable companies in Peru, and had a smooth experience. The ride takes about 8 hours, with departures in the evening and arrivals early the next morning.
If you spring for the VIP service, you’ll get a fully reclining seat, a blanket, and a pillow—everything you need to pretend you're sleeping on a bed and not a rumbling vehicle navigating switchbacks through the Andes. It’s not luxurious, but it gets the job done. And best of all, you wake up surrounded by mountains.
Day buses are also available, but most travelers opt for the overnight route to save on both time and a night of lodging. Just don’t expect much in the way of scenery—it’ll be dark the whole way.
Getting Around Huaraz
Huaraz is refreshingly walkable—especially if you book a hotel near the city center, within easy reach of the Plaza de Armas. We strolled just about everywhere in town, whether we were heading to dinner, meeting a guide, or doing that awkward high-altitude shuffle while trying to buy snacks without getting winded.
There’s no Uber or other rideshare service in Huaraz, but taxis are plentiful and easy to use. Just be sure to ask for the price before you get in. In our experience, drivers were direct and fair. We never felt the need to haggle—they consistently offered prices that were in line with what we’d expect from an Uber, which was a pleasant surprise. No games. No mystery surcharges. Just straightforward rides at straightforward prices.
If you're heading to trailheads or surrounding villages, you will need a ride. Most travelers book a tour with one of the many companies (see below). In theory, you can arrange a private taxi if you want to break away from the hordes of hikers heading into the mountains surrounding Huaraz. Just make sure your ride is confirmed in advance if you're planning an early start for a big hike.
For hikes or sights closer to town, you can often hop on a colectivo—those shared vans that run along set routes and fill up with locals and the occasional intrepid traveler. They’re cheap, efficient, and a great way to feel like you're part of daily life in Huaraz. Just ask around (your hotel can help), and make sure you know where to get off. They won’t hold your hand, but if you are clear about where you need to get off, they will make sure it happens.
Sleeping in Huaraz for the Budget Conscious Traveler
When choosing a place to stay in Huaraz, location matters—a lot. You'll want to be within walking distance of the Plaza de Armas, where most of the restaurants, cafes, and tour offices are located. Huaraz is very walkable as long as you're based centrally, and being near the plaza means you can wander for food or catch a colectivo or taxi without much fuss.
We stayed at Hotel Turístico Everest, and while the location was fine, our experience came with a caveat that’s worth mentioning: the room we got was not the room we booked. And this wasn’t just a one-off. We found this to be a pattern in Peru. The photos we saw on Agoda showed a room with large windows and a balcony looking out to the mountains—a perfect perch to soak in the views. The room we were given had two tiny windows tucked up near the ceiling. Maybe there was a view out there somewhere. But we certainly couldn’t see it.
We brought this up with the hotel, but—as happened more than once on our trip—mentioning the discrepancy didn’t get us the room we’d actually reserved. No alternative was offered, no explanation given. Just a shrug and an assurance that the room we were in was “very nice.”
So, our advice? Stay central, double-check the location, and manage expectations when it comes to rooms booked through third-party platforms. The city is a launchpad for stunning alpine adventures, but hotel honesty isn't always the peak of the experience.
What to eat in Huaraz
Huaraz doesn’t have the same culinary clout as Lima, but you absolutely won’t go hungry here. The town has a mix of hearty Peruvian staples, casual international eats, and a few standout gems. Whether you’re refueling after a long hike or carbo-loading before your next one, here are some places worth checking out:
Pollería Santa Cruz – A solid local spot for roasted chicken with crispy skin and juicy meat. Comes with fries and salad, and won’t wreck your budget.
Calima – A stylish restaurant offering a modern take on Peruvian cuisine. More refined than your average spot, but still casual and welcoming.
Don Vito Pollo y Parrillas – Another great option for grilled chicken and meats. Portions are generous, and flavors are bold.
Café Andino – Cozy, with a wood-burning fireplace that makes it the perfect place to warm up on a cold Andean morning. Great for breakfast, and lounging.
Pashta Sanguchería Artesanal – A local favorite for creative sandwiches. Good bread, inventive fillings, and hearty portions make this a great lunch stop.
El Rinconcito Minero – One of the most recommended restaurants in Huaraz. Traditional Peruvian fare served at very fair prices. Try the lomo saltado or ají de gallina.
Paulino’s Indian Cuisine – A bit of an unexpected find in Huaraz, but this little Indian spot has a devoted following. Great curries and naan—perfect comfort food after a long hike.
La Casita del Mago – Tucked into a tight space packed with tables, but what it lacks in size it makes up for in flavor. The menu rotates, and everything we tried was excellent.
El Fogón – A classic Peruvian steakhouse. Come here when you’re craving a big, meaty meal.
And finally, don’t miss the churro carts on the main street off the Plaza de Armas. These little carts serve up hot, crispy churros, often filled with manjar blanco (a caramel-like filling), and they were some of the best we had in all of Peru. Perfect for dessert… or second dessert
What to Do in Huaraz (Besides the Mountains)
Let’s be honest: most people come to Huaraz for the mountains. And rightly so. The Cordillera Blanca is one of the most stunning mountain ranges in the world. But if you find yourself with a free afternoon, a rest day between hikes, or a traveling companion who needs a little more time to acclimatize, there are still plenty of things to do in and around town.
Plaza de Armas
Every Peruvian city has one, but Huaraz’s is a solid version. The plaza is clean, walkable, and ringed with restaurants, shops, and bakeries. It’s the kind of place where locals hang out and travelers reorient. A good place to watch the rhythm of the city (and maybe snag a churro or two from a street cart).
Visit the Regional Museum of Ancash
A surprisingly solid museum for a town this size. The exhibits focus on the region’s pre-Columbian cultures, particularly the Recuay and Wari civilizations. The real highlight? The outdoor sculpture garden full of ancient stone monoliths. Even if you’re not a museum person, this one is worth an hour or two.
Walk the Riverside Trail
There’s a mellow walking path that follows the Río Quillcay. You’re not getting jaw-dropping views here, but it’s a great way to stretch your legs without adding elevation. Locals use it for morning jogs and evening strolls.
Check Out the Local Markets
Markets in Huaraz are as authentic as they come. The Mercado Central de Huaraz is packed with produce, meat, and daily necessities. For the curious (and the cautious), it's a good place to get a sense of what locals are actually cooking and eating. There are also smaller artisanal markets where you can pick up wool goods, snacks, and handmade souvenirs without the Lima markup.
Warm Up in the Thermal Baths (Baños Termales de Monterrey)
About 15–20 minutes from Huaraz by taxi or collectivo, the Monterrey hot springs are a popular place to soak sore muscles. These aren’t luxury spa-level baths, but they’re cheap, accessible, and pleasantly warm. If you just hiked Laguna 69, this may be your reward.
Browse the Book Exchange at Café Andino
If you’re the type of traveler who burns through books faster than the bus eats switchbacks, Café Andino has a cozy book exchange upstairs. It’s a good spot to recharge (literally—plenty of plugs), do a bit of journaling, and plan your next hike.
Take a Cooking Class or Language Lesson
If you’re in Huaraz for more than a few days, consider booking a short-term cooking class or a Spanish refresher. Several hostels and tour offices offer informal classes, and they’re a fun way to connect with locals and other travelers without strapping on your boots again.
Just Sit and Watch the Clouds Move Over the Mountains
Sometimes the best thing to do is nothing at all. Grab a seat on a rooftop terrace, order a warm meal, and let the jagged white peaks peek in and out of the clouds. There are worse ways to rest up for the next adventure.
Mountain Activities from Huaraz
If Huaraz is the gateway, then the Cordillera Blanca is what lies beyond it—and what draws people here from all over the world. This is the highest tropical mountain range on Earth, home to over 50 peaks above 5,700 meters, and offering everything from rugged expeditions to casual day hikes. If you're in Peru and you're not planning to hike, Huaraz might not be for you. But if you're looking for some of the most spectacular alpine scenery you’ll ever see, you've found the right place.
The Big Treks
Huaraz is the launch point for several multi-day treks, many of which require camping, porters, and a fair bit of planning or a guide. These are serious hikes through remote areas—rewarding but not to be underestimated. If you’ve got the time and stamina, here are a few worth looking into:
The Santa Cruz Trek – This is the classic. Usually done in 3–4 days, it takes you through high mountain passes, glacial lakes, and Andean villages. It’s one of the most popular treks in South America and a good choice if you want epic views without committing to a full expedition.
The Huayhuash Circuit – More remote and challenging than Santa Cruz, this one is for experienced trekkers. Expect jaw-dropping alpine passes, turquoise lakes, and few other people. It's often considered one of the best alpine treks in the world—it's usually at least 10 days long.
Alpamayo Base Camp Trek – A variation or extension of Santa Cruz, this gets you up close with Alpamayo, often cited as the most beautiful mountain in the world (seriously—Google it). Best done with a guide.
These longer treks are often arranged through agencies in Huaraz, or online before arrival. Most include gear, meals, and guides. Unless you’ve done this sort of thing independently in high-altitude terrain before, I’d recommend going with an organized group.
Day Trips and Shorter Hikes
Not everyone can take two weeks to disappear into the mountains, and thankfully, you don’t need to. Huaraz is surrounded by incredible day hikes, many of which you can book through local agencies or on platforms like Get Your Guide. You'll see agency signs plastered all over town, advertising the same trips. Don’t stress too much about which one to choose—they’re mostly running the same routes, often in shared vans. Just compare prices, check reviews if you can, and don’t be afraid to walk in and ask questions.
Note that there’s a significant amount of time spent in a vehicle on these trips. Expect at least three hours each way, with a good chunk of that—often an hour or more—on bumpy, winding roads. It’s the kind of ride that turns the van into a maraca and you into the beans.
Here are a few of the most popular and rewarding day trips:
Laguna Parón – A brilliant turquoise lake cradled by snowy peaks (one of which may have been the inspiration for the Paramount Pictures logo). While the lake sits at around 4,200 meters, the actual hiking required is minimal unless you choose to climb above the lake for views (and even then, it only requires a short, if intense, burst of effort to hit the viewpoint). This is a great first high-elevation hike—perfect for acclimatization.
Laguna 69 – This is the big one. The hike itself isn’t long by the numbers (about 6 km each way), but the altitude and steep inclines make it tough. You’ll climb from around 3,900 to 4,600 meters, and the switchbacks at the end are a test of will. But the payoff—an electric blue glacial lake beneath towering peaks—is one of the most photogenic scenes in Peru. But don’t expect to have the place to yourself. Laguna 69 is not a secret spot.
Pastoruri Glacier – Less strenuous than Laguna 69, but much higher. The trailhead starts at 4,800 meters, and the glacier sits over 5,000. The hike itself is short and relatively easy, but the elevation hits hard. Be acclimatized before you go. Also, this one gives you a sobering look at a rapidly retreating glacier that will certainly vanish in the coming years.
Other options worth mentioning:
Laguna Churup – Steep and scenic. A tough trail with some scrambling near the end. Great for those wanting a more physical day without committing to multi-day treks.
Wilcacocha Lagoon – A mellow half-day option with beautiful views of the Cordillera Blanca. Lower elevation than most hikes—great for acclimatization.
Lake Llanganuco – Often included as a scenic stop on other tours, these twin lakes are accessible, serene, and a good option for those who want the views without the climb.
Huaraz isn’t the kind of place that rolls out a red carpet. It hands you a pair of dusty boots, a bowl of soup, and a weather forecast that’s always a little bit off. But if you’re willing to put in the effort—to wake up before dawn, to haul yourself up switchbacks gasping for air, to get bounced around in vans on roads that barely qualify as roads—then this little city in the clouds rewards you tenfold. The mountains are the main event, sure. But the gritty charm of Huaraz, the warmth of its people, and the pure joy of that first plate of pollo a la brasa after a 10-hour hike will stay with you. It’s the kind of place that makes an impression in a good way—because travel is about more than just views. It’s about effort, discomfort, triumph, and finding beauty where you didn’t know to look.
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