Nuts and Bolts: Travel Tips for Visiting Lima, Peru
- Rand Blimes
- Jun 15
- 14 min read
Nuts and Bolts posts give you the practical information you need, but without stripping away the humor, mishaps, and little victories that make real travel what it is. These aren’t just guides. They’re how we actually did it—mistakes, triumphs, and all.
This page has some travel tips for visiting Lima to aid in planning your own trip. I travel mainly with my wife, and we love to simply wander and eat when we explore a new place. We were in Lima in July and August, 2024, for about two weeks all together. If your trip to Lima is significantly longer/shorter/with a different focus, you may have a very different experience.
We didn’t mean to become regulars in Lima. But over the course of one summer—thanks to a string of long bus rides, luggage hostage situations, and Lima’s uncanny ability to be the unavoidable middleman for all travel in Peru—we became quite familiar with the place.
And here’s the thing: Lima grew on us. At first glance, it’s a big, gray city wrapped in fog. But give it a few days, and you start to find what makes it tick. Cliffside views. Killer food. Cats with legal squatter status in public parks. Enough ceviche to keep your taste buds tingling and your gut on high alert.
It may not be the city you came to Peru for, but by the end, it might just be the one you miss the most.
Travel Tips for Visiting Lima: Weather
Lima is many things—sprawling, chaotic, full of life—but it is not a city of blue skies. That’s because for most of the year, Lima lives under a gray coastal ceiling known as the garúa—a misty marine layer that settles in like a long-term guest and refuses to leave.
Summer (December to April) is when Lima comes closest to being sunny. Temperatures typically range from the high 70s to mid 80s°F (25–30°C), with high humidity. This is beach season, and if you want warm weather and a chance of actual sunshine, this is the time to come. You may even catch glimpses of a blue sky, which in Lima counts as a minor miracle.
Winter (May to October), on the other hand, is cool, damp, and relentlessly overcast. Daytime temperatures hover in the low to mid 60s°F (16–19°C), but it often feels colder thanks to the wind and humidity. It rarely rains in Lima, but the garúa creates a chilly, misty drizzle that clings to everything—including your mood if you’re not prepared.
If you live somewhere with “real” winter, Lima’s winter will seem mild. But if, like us, you’re coming from a warm place (say, a tropical island in the Pacific), it can feel like a misty apocalypse. Pack layers. Pack a jacket. Don’t assume “South America” means heat.
Also note: Lima’s coastal climate is very different from the Andes or the jungle. You can go from sea mist to snow-capped mountains to sweltering Amazon humidity in a single travel day. Plan accordingly.
In short: Lima is a year-round city, but you’ll have a different experience depending on the season. If you want "heat" and a reasonable chance of sunshine, aim for summer. If you're visiting in winter, bring your own warmth and a flexible attitude.
Getting to Lima
Unless you’re traveling overland from elsewhere in South America, Lima is your likely entry point into Peru. And if you're planning to explore different regions—coastal desert, highlands, jungle—then Lima won't just be your gateway, it’ll probably be your revolving door.
That’s how we used it. We flew into Lima from the U.S., then took a bus north to Huaraz. Back to Lima. Flew to Cuzco. Back to Lima. Took a bus south to Huacachina. Back to Lima. Flew to Iquitos. And yes, back to Lima. It was like our luggage barely had time to unpack before it was circling Jorge Chávez Airport again.
Lima’s Jorge Chávez International Airport (LIM) is the country’s primary air hub and handles the bulk of international and domestic flights. It's not exactly glamorous, but it’s functional. Most international flights arrive late at night or very early in the morning, so plan your first day accordingly—especially if you’ve got hotel check-in or transfer logistics to deal with.
If you’re doing any sort of multi-region itinerary, you’ll probably fly back through Lima repeatedly. Peru’s domestic flights are affordable and relatively frequent, but most require you to route through Lima even if your destinations are closer to each other than to the capital. It doesn't always seem logical, but it is how the system works.
Lima also serves as the country's primary long-distance bus hub. If you're heading to places like Huaraz, Nazca, Arequipa, or Huacachina, the bus system is your friend. Peru’s long-haul buses are surprisingly comfortable—think more business class than Greyhound—and Lima has multiple terminals depending on the company you're using. Just make sure to double-check which station your bus leaves from; there is more than one scattered across the city.
We used Cruz de Sur for all our bus journeys in Peru. It was easy to purchase tickets online, organized, and the busses were as comfortable as bus travel ever gets.
In short: whether you like it or not, you’ll get to know Lima. It might not be love at first sight—but it grows on you. And logistically speaking, it makes a great home base.
Getting Around Lima
Let’s keep this simple: in Lima, you’ll mostly be using Uber.
The city is huge and sprawling, with chaotic traffic patterns that make driving yourself more of a daredevil sport than a transportation option. Luckily, Uber works really well here. It’s affordable, reliable, and saves you the headache of negotiating fares or trying to explain directions in Spanish.
Miraflores and Barranco, the two neighborhoods where most travelers stay, are fairly walkable once you’re there. Miraflores has wide sidewalks, coastal parks, and lots of cafés and shops clustered close together. Barranco is more compact and artsy, with street murals and charming backstreets you’ll want to explore on foot.
But if you’re trying to connect between neighborhoods—or venture farther afield to places like the historic center or the airport—Uber is your best friend. Just pull out your phone, get a ride, and let someone else deal with Lima’s traffic and indecipherable lane merges.
There are also public buses and a metro system, but they’re not well-suited to short-term visitors. Routes are often confusing, signage is minimal, and pickpocketing can be an issue. Unless you speak good Spanish and are craving the challenge, it’s better to stick with what works. And in Lima, what works is Uber.
Sleeping in Lima for the Budget Conscious Traveler
The first decision you’ll need to make when booking a hotel in Lima is which neighborhood to stay in. For most travelers, the answer is simple: Miraflores.
Miraflores is user-friendly, full of restaurants, cafés, shops, and grocery stores, and it’s home to the Malecón—a cliffside pedestrian walkway that stretches for miles above the Pacific Ocean, with parks, scenic overlooks, and space to breathe. Miraflores is clean, safe, walkable, and generally makes for an easy landing in Peru.
Because we passed through Lima multiple times over our trip, we stayed in several different hotels. Our favorite by far was LARQ'A Park Rooms. The room was small but cozy, with a genuinely excellent mattress—which has become a top priority for us as we've gotten older and our backs have grown opinionated. But the real highlight was the location: right next to Kennedy Park (also known as Lima’s cat park—more on that below), in the heart of Miraflores. From the hotel, it’s about a 15-minute walk to the Malecón, and that walk takes you past more food options than you could possibly eat through in one trip.
If you’re looking for something a little different, another great neighborhood is Barranco. Much smaller and more artsy than Miraflores, Barranco is all charm. Think colonial buildings with peeling paint, street murals, and bougainvillea spilling over balconies. If you choose Barranco, stay in the general area around the Bridge of Sighs. While you won’t have quite the same number of restaurants and shops as Miraflores, you’ll still have plenty to explore—and far fewer crowds, especially in the evening when the day trippers all head back to Miraflores.
Whether you stay in bustling Miraflores or artsy Barranco, you'll have access to some of Lima’s best food, scenery, and neighborhoods, all within walking distance or a quick Uber ride.
What to eat in Lima
Lima may be the best food city in South America. In 2024, three of its restaurants ranked among the world’s 50 best, with Maido cracking the top five. If you’re into fine dining, Lima delivers—big time. But the city’s culinary scene isn’t just for people with black AmEx cards. From humble neighborhood cevicherías to Chinatown fusion joints and mind-blowing Japanese spots tucked into unassuming office buildings, Lima is a feast.
This is the place to try ceviche the way it was meant to be eaten—zippy, briny, fresh, and gone in under five minutes. It’s also the place for lomo saltado, anticuchos, and the layered glory of causa. Whether you’re splurging or snacking, bring your appetite. Lima is going to feed you well.
Miraflores
Mercado Food Courts – Miraflores has several great food halls, perfect for indecisive eaters or budget-conscious travelers. You’ll find everything from sushi to lomo saltado, tacos to anticuchos. Our favorites were Mercado 28 Miraflores, Mercado San Martín, and Mercado San Ramón—each packed with options, energy, and plenty of good eats.
Matria – Our best meal in Peru. A stunning tasting menu that takes you on a creative, beautifully plated tour of Peruvian flavors. Reserve in advance and get ready to swoon.
El Mercado – This is a top choice for ceviche lovers. Fresh, clean, punchy flavors. No line when we went, and better than the more famous spots.
Punto Azul – A seafood classic with crowds to match. The food is solid, but in our experience, El Mercado outshone it on both flavor and service.
Chicharrones Don Lucho – Hearty, juicy pork sandwiches with crispy edges and soft centers. Decadent and delicious.
La Lucha Sanguchería Criolla – An institution for sandwiches in Lima. Great bread, flavorful fillings, and bold sauces.
El Chinito – Our favorite of the sangucherías. Homey, fast, and intensely satisfying.
Manolo – Come for the churros con chocolate, stay because you’ve slipped into a
sugar coma and can’t get up. While you are down there, order more churros.
Manolo's churros con chocolate Beso Francés Crêperie – Lima has a thing for crêpes, and this place does them well—sweet or savory, it’s hard to go wrong.
Helarte – A small café with good breakfast and walls entirely covered in whimsical drawings. It’s worth a visit just for the ambiance.
Helarte's interior–the exterior looks the same Siete Sopas – Seven soups, rotating daily. Go early or line up. Comfort food at its finest and wildly popular with locals.
Grimanesa Anticuchería – You’ll find anticuchos (grilled beef heart) all over Lima, and this is a great place to try them. Even if you think you’re not a heart person, trust the process. Grimanesa converts skeptics.
Anticuchería Doña Pochita – If Grimanesa is the queen of anticuchos, Doña Pochita might be the high priestess. A little more under-the-radar, but absolutely worth the trip. The heart is perfectly marinated and grilled to a smoky, charred finish that manages to be tender, not chewy. Sides are simple—potatoes, corn, maybe some spicy sauce—but the flavor is next-level. This is anticucho done with love and fire. Don’t be surprised if you start eyeing other tables and ordering a second round.
Other Neighborhoods
Osaka (San Isidro) – If anything gave Matria a run for best meal, it was this. Japanese-Peruvian fusion done with finesse. The sashimi was the best I’ve had outside of Japan. Worth every sol.
Arlotia (Barranco) – Cozy Spanish tapas bar tucked into a side street. Great variety of small plates. We liked it so much we went back a second time.
Isolina (Barranco) – Hearty, rustic Peruvian food in a stylish colonial house. Portions are generous, flavors are deep, and the vibe is buzzing.
Canta Rana (Barranco) – A lively cevichería that’s beloved by locals and travelers alike. The ceviche is excellent, and the crowd is part of the charm.
Chifa Wa Lok (Chinatown) – A standout in Lima’s Chifa (Chinese-Peruvian) food scene. Big menu, fast service, generous portions. Go hungry.
What To Do in Lima
While not an exhaustive list, here are a few places to start thinking about what you want to do in Lima.
Miraflores
Malecón of Miraflores – Morning, afternoon, or evening, it’s always a good time for a walk along the Malecón. This scenic cliffside promenade stretches for miles above the Pacific Ocean, dotted with parks, sculptures, paragliders, and benches perfect for resting or contemplating life, ceviche, and why Lima seems to exist in a constant state of gray mist.
Parque del Amor – This small park overlooking the ocean is best visited at sunset. Couples flock here to admire the views and the park’s centerpiece: a large sculpture of an eternal kiss. If you’re not feeling romantic, don’t worry—you can still enjoy the view or practice your own dramatic sunset brooding.
Larcomar – A mall. In a cliff. Somehow, it’s better than it sounds. There’s shopping, decent food, and a cinema—particularly helpful when you’re cold, tired, have four hours to kill before hotel check-in, and Delta Airlines has misplaced your entire wardrobe.
Kennedy Park – The unofficial mascot of Miraflores. There are cats. Everywhere. They lounge in flower beds, sleep under benches, and look at you like they run the place (they kind of do). Sit down on a bench and one might hop upon your lap. If you want to stack the odds, just buy some cat food from a nearby market. At night, you’ll also find churros, street snacks, and the sweet smell of caramelized temptation in the air. Further, when the sun goes down there are often art shows, street musicians, and impromptu salsa dancers. It’s one of the best people-watching spots in the city. Especially if you’re there on a weekend, linger.
Huaca Pucllana – In the middle of Miraflores sits this massive adobe and clay pyramid that predates the Incas. You can do a guided tour through the ruins (required for all visitors), and marvel at the contrast of ancient mud bricks against the backdrop of modern apartment buildings. Bonus: there’s a fancy restaurant next door with views of the ruins if you want to dine with a side of history (it wasn’t open when we visited, so I can’t vouch for the food).
Beaches Below the Cliffs
Miraflores sits dramatically above the Pacific, its cliffs like the edge of a continent unsure if it wants to dive into the ocean or stay safely elevated above it. But if you want to trade your panoramic views for sand and surf, there’s a string of beaches directly below—connected to the upper city by roads and winding walking paths.
Playa Waikiki – One of the more popular surf spots right below the Miraflores cliffs. It’s not named after Hawaii by accident. You’ll find local surfers catching surprisingly consistent waves here, and surf schools offering lessons if you want to join them. You probably won’t be alone, but the vibe is laid-back and welcoming. The water there is . . . not as warm as the real Waikiki.
Playa Makaha – A favorite for longboarders. It’s adjacent to Waikiki and just a short walk down from the pier. There’s usually less of a crowd on the sand here, which makes it a good option if you're more into watching the waves than riding them.
Costa Verde – The coastal road running below Miraflores that links together the beach scene. You can walk or bike along parts of it, though it's not the most scenic stroll unless you love traffic and seawalls. But it’s functional and connects you with places like Barranco and San Isidro’s beaches.
A few notes before you sprint down to the surf:
Lima’s beaches are rocky, not soft and sandy. You’ll want sandals or water shoes unless your feet are made of tougher stuff than the average beachgoer. And the water? Cold. Like, take-your-breath-away cold. It’s the Humboldt Current at work—refreshing in theory, but a bit shocking in practice.
Still, it’s worth heading down at least once. Sit on the pebbles. Watch the surfers. Let the ocean wind slap you awake. The cliffs above may get all the postcard love, but Lima’s beaches bring a different kind of beauty—rough, real, and wonderfully Peruvian.
Barranco
Bajada de Baños – This picturesque path leads from the heart of Barranco down toward the ocean. Along the way, it’s lined with murals, quirky shops, and plenty of character. The kind of place where you want to have your camera out, even if you're just going out for a juice.
Steps and street art along the Bajada de Baños Bridge of Sighs (Puente de los Suspiros) – Legend says that if you hold your breath while walking the entire length of the bridge, you get a wish. I was desperate for my luggage, so I gave it a go. And what do you know—clean socks arrived the next day. Coincidence? Maybe. But maybe not!
Plaza de Armas de Barranco – Smaller and more charming than Lima’s main plaza. There’s a colonial church, plenty of shaded benches, and—importantly—a library, thus solving the age-old mystery of ¿Dónde está la biblioteca?
Museo de Arte Contemporáneo (MAC Lima) – A sleek modern building filled with Peruvian and Latin American contemporary art. A great counterpoint to all the pre-Columbian and colonial artifacts you'll encounter elsewhere.
Old City (Centro Histórico)
You can connect the main attractions in Lima’s old city in half a day. Take an Uber to the square and explore the area on foot.
Plaza de Armas (Main Square) – This is the grand central square of Lima, and the colonial heart of the city. Surrounded by government buildings and impressive architecture, it’s a good place to start your tour of historic Lima.
Lima Cathedral – A massive, ornate cathedral built on the site of an Inca temple. It’s got that grand, gold-covered, baroque flair—and the tomb of conquistador Francisco Pizarro, if you're into grim sightseeing.
Presidential Palace – Right on the Plaza de Armas. There’s a daily changing of the guard that’s worth seeing if you happen to time it right.
Basílica and Convent of San Francisco – The architecture is lovely, the library is straight out of a fantasy novel, and the catacombs are a bone-filled, oddly beautiful glimpse into the past. It’s eerie, fascinating, and worth the visit.
Plaza San Martín – Just a short walk from the Plaza de Armas, this square is more chill and atmospheric. Great for people-watching and soaking up early 20th-century vibes.
Casa de la Gastronomía Peruana – A small but culturally rich museum dedicated to Peru’s culinary traditions. It’s not fancy or world-class, but it’s a love letter to Peruvian food, tucked just off the Plaza de Armas. Worth popping in if you’re already downtown and into food history.
Barrio Chino (Chinatown) – A vibrant, chaotic strip packed with shops and chifas (Chinese-Peruvian restaurants). Come hungry. And maybe don’t wear white—it’s impossible to eat lomo saltado with soy sauce and not end up wearing some of it.
Other
Magic Water Circuit (Circuito Mágico del Agua) – Reserve Park’s crown jewel. Go after dark. The fountains light up with coordinated water shows set to music. It’s surprisingly delightful and an excellent way to cap off a long day. Bring a rain jacket if you plan to get close.
Museo Larco – Set in a gorgeous 18th-century mansion with lush gardens, this museum houses one of the world’s most comprehensive collections of pre-Columbian art. Yes, that includes that room of ancient erotic pottery. You’ve been warned.
Museo de Arte de Lima (MALI) – A great overview of Peruvian art history, from pre-Hispanic artifacts to modern pieces. It’s housed in a beautiful palace, and conveniently located near downtown attractions.
We didn’t expect to spend so much time in Lima, but we’re glad we did. Between the food, the fog, and the cat-infested parks, the city grew from a layover into a memory. Lima may not grab your attention the way Machu Picchu or the Sacred Valley does—but if you give it time, it speaks in quieter tones: a bowl of perfect ceviche, a misty walk on the malecón, a library hiding in a plaza. It’s a city that rewards patience and good shoes. And maybe that’s the best kind of place. The kind you end up loving not because you planned to, but simply because travel led you there.
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