Nuts and Bolts: Travel Tips for Visiting Samarkand
- Rand Blimes
- 3 hours ago
- 16 min read
Nuts and Bolts posts give you the practical information you need, but without stripping away the humor, mishaps, and little victories that make real travel what it is. These aren’t just guides. They’re how we actually did it—mistakes, triumphs, and all.
This page has some travel tips for visiting Samarkand, Uzbekistan, to aid in planning your own trip. I travel mainly with my wife, and we love to simply wander and eat when we explore a new place. We were in Samarkand in July, 2024. If your trip to Samarkand is significantly longer/shorter/with a different focus, you may have a very different experience.
Before dawn, Samarkand feels like someone hit the pause button on life.
I slipped out of my hotel while the city was still wrapped in that blue-gray pre-dawn gloom, the streets quiet enough that my footsteps felt loud and slightly intrusive. I walked toward the Registan, Samarkand’s spectacular city square. I was guided less by my gps than by a vague sense of gravity. You don’t have to navigate to the Registan. You just drift toward it, pulled by the idea of it.
The Registan is not a single building. It’s a composition. Three monumental madrassas arranged with such confidence and symmetry that the square feels less constructed than revealed—an enormous, ceremonial stage built of tile, geometry, and ambition. It’s a place that doesn’t just sit in a city; it defines the city.
The complex was closed, but the steps in front and the viewing platform are always accessible. I sat down, alone, facing one of the most extraordinary pieces of urban space on the planet, and put in my headphones. I queued up the perfect soundtrack for a surreal sunrise in a surreal place: Animals by Pink Floyd. The opening notes rolled in as the sky began its slow transformation, deep blue giving way to soft gray, then hints of pink creeping in at the edges.
When the color finally bloomed, I tripped the shutter on my camera.
There were more images to make, of course. Other angles. Slight shifts in framing. But I knew I’d be back in this same spot the next morning. So I didn’t rush. I took a few more photos, yes—but mostly I just sat there, trying to absorb the atmosphere like a sponge. The silence. The scale. The improbable fact that this place exists at all.
This was a perfect travel moment. And I had it entirely to myself.
Mornings are awesome. The Registan is the most impressive city square I have ever visited. And Animals is the most underrated album Pink Floyd ever made.
Welcome to my perfect day in Samarkand.
Travel Tips for Visiting Samarkand: Weather
Samarkand shares much of Uzbekistan’s desert climate, but it feels just a touch more forgiving than Khiva or Bukhara—slightly cooler, slightly breezier, and just enough elevation to give you the illusion that the sun might show mercy.
It usually does not.
Summer (June–August)
We were in Samarkand in summer, and while it may be marginally kinder than Khiva, that’s a very low bar. Daytime temperatures regularly soar into the high 30s and low 40s Celsius (100–105°F), and the wide-open spaces around Samarkand’s major monuments offer very little shade. The Registan, Shah-i-Zinda, and other grand sites are breathtaking—but at midday, they are also solar ovens.
The trick is the same as elsewhere in Uzbekistan: embrace the rhythm of the day. Early mornings are glorious, especially when the light hits the tilework. Evenings soften beautifully. Midday is for retreat—back to the hotel, into a museum, or anywhere with thick walls and air conditioning. Ignore this rhythm and Samarkand will wear you down. Follow it, and the city becomes manageable, even enchanting.
Spring (April–May) and Fall (September–October)
These are the ideal seasons to visit Samarkand. Warm days, cooler nights, and light that feels designed specifically to flatter turquoise tiles and golden brick. You can explore comfortably for longer stretches, linger at sites, and wander without constantly plotting your next escape from the sun. If you have flexibility, aim for these months.
Winter (November–February)
Winter in Samarkand is cold but generally dry. Snow is possible, though not constant. The upside is a quieter city and a softer, more contemplative atmosphere. The Registan under winter light feels solemn and dignified, and crowds thin dramatically. Just dress warmly—especially in the mornings and evenings.
No matter the season, Samarkand rewards travelers who plan their days around the weather rather than fighting it. Rise early. Rest when the sun is strongest. Return to the streets when the light turns kind again. The city has been waiting for centuries—it isn’t in a hurry.
Getting to Samarkand
Samarkand sits right in the middle of Uzbekistan’s Silk Road spine, which makes it conceptually easy to reach. In practice, it’s still Central Asia—so build in a little patience and a healthy sense of humor.
From Bukhara to Samarkand
The most popular option is the “fast” train (usually branded as Afrosiyob or Sharq). On paper, this trip is supposed to take about 1 hour and 40 minutes.
In reality? Ours took three and a half hours.
Nothing went wrong, exactly. The train simply moved at the pace it wished to move, stopping when it felt like it, reminding us gently that speed is a suggestion, not a guarantee. The cars were comfortable, air-conditioned, and perfectly fine—just… not fast.
That said, this is still the easiest and least stressful way to travel between Bukhara and Samarkand. Buy tickets on the Uzbekistan Railways website in advance if you can, especially in high season, and mentally prepare for the journey to take longer than advertised. If it arrives on time, you’ll feel like you won a small lottery.
Shared taxis, marshrutkas, and private cars are also options, but given road conditions and the heat, the train is still the better choice for most travelers.
From Tashkent to Samarkand
This is one of Uzbekistan’s best transport links. Multiple daily trains—including true high-speed services—connect Tashkent and Samarkand in about 2 to 2.5 hours, and this route tends to be more reliable than the Bukhara leg.
If you’re starting your Uzbekistan trip in Tashkent, Samarkand makes an excellent first stop. The transition from modern capital to ancient Silk Road grandeur is immediate and dramatic.
Note that wherever you are coming from, if you find yourself arriving at the Samarkand train station, I would suggest exiting the station, passing the queue of taxis, and walking 50 meters or so down the street before you call a Yandex Go car to pick you up. The station itself can be a mess traffic-wise. Get yourself a bit of distance and you will have an easier time.
Onward to Dushanbe, Tajikistan
Getting from Samarkand to Dushanbe is more of an adventure—but a manageable one.
We took a very DIY approach:
Yandex Go to the Uzbek–Tajik border at Panjakent (116,000 som/$9.50US)
Walked across the border on foot (immigration formalities on both sides)
Hired a private car on the Tajik side to take us onward to Dushanbe (800 somani/$85US)
It sounds complicated, but in practice it was straightforward and surprisingly efficient. Just make sure:
Your visas (if required) are sorted in advance
You have some local cash for both sides of the border
You allow extra time for border formalities, which can vary day to day
Additionally, if you take this route, I suggest going early so the border isn't too crowded.
Once across, the drive to Dushanbe is scenic and feels like a genuine shift into a new country and culture—one of those overland transitions that reminds you why you didn’t just fly.
Samarkand isn’t hard to reach, but it does require flexibility. Build in buffers. Expect delays. And remember: on the Silk Road, the journey has always mattered almost as much as the destination.
Getting Around Samarkand
Samarkand is not like Bukhara or Khiva, where everything of interest is packed neatly into a tight, wanderable knot of history. Samarkand is bigger, broader, and more spread out, and while that gives it a slightly more lived-in feel, it also means you’ll want a transportation plan beyond “good walking shoes and optimism.”
The historic core—especially around the Registan—is very walkable. You can easily explore the Registan, nearby madrassas, mosques, and restaurants on foot, and wandering these streets is part of the pleasure of being here. Early mornings and evenings are especially good for walking, when the heat eases and the city slows down.
But some of Samarkand’s most important sites are too far apart to realistically walk between, especially in summer. Shah-i-Zinda, the Bibi-Khanym Mosque, Ulugh Beg Observatory, and more modern neighborhoods sit at distances that turn “a nice stroll” into “a poor life choice” once the sun is involved.
This is where Yandex Go becomes your best friend.
Yandex Go works extremely well in Samarkand. Cars are easy to find, wait times are generally short, and rides are shockingly inexpensive by most travelers’ standards. It’s perfect for hopping between major sites, escaping the heat midday, or getting back to your hotel if your ambition outpaces your hydration.
Cars are plentiful, drivers are generally friendly, and the app removes any language or price-negotiation friction. If you’re comfortable using ride-share apps at home, you’ll be comfortable using Yandex Go here within minutes.
The sweet spot in Samarkand is a hybrid approach:
Walk when you can, especially in the historic center
Ride when you should, especially between major monuments during the heat of midday
Samarkand rewards slow exploration, but it also rewards knowing when to let someone else do the driving.
Where to Stay in Samarkand for the Budget Conscious Traveler
In Samarkand, location matters a lot.
We stayed at Hotel Kamila Boutique, largely because it has a rooftop lounge with a direct view of the Registan. That alone would have justified the choice. Sitting up there in the early morning or late evening, watching the light shift across one of the most extraordinary city squares on Earth, never got old.
More generally, I strongly recommend staying near the Registan if you can. This area puts you in the gravitational center of the city’s historic core. From here, everything between Gur-i Amir Mausoleum and Shah-i Zinda is within fairly reasonable walking distance—especially if you break the day into chunks and don’t insist on doing everything at noon in July (a mistake you only make once).
Staying near the Registan also makes early mornings and late evenings effortless. You can slip out before dawn without needing a car, or wander back after sunset when the square is lit and the crowds thin. Midday retreats back to the hotel are easy, which matters a great deal in the Samarkand heat.
There are plenty of hotels scattered across the city, including newer properties farther out, but staying too far from the historic center means you’ll spend more time in cars and less time soaking in atmosphere. Samarkand is big enough that distance adds friction.
If your goal is to experience the city rather than just visit its sites, base yourself near the Registan. It anchors your days, simplifies logistics, and keeps Samarkand’s most powerful spaces woven naturally into your routine.
What to eat in Samarkand
Samarkand does food well. Not flashy, not trendy—but confident.
You’ll find all the familiar Uzbek staples here—plov, shashlik, lagman, manty—but Samarkand puts its own stamp on them, especially when it comes to plov, which is very much a point of local pride.
A few places stood out for us:
A solid, reliable choice fairly near the old center. The food was good, the setting comfortable, and it worked well when we wanted something straightforward without having to overthink the decision.
Excellent shashlik—juicy, smoky, and clearly done by people who know what they’re doing. That said, it’s a bit out of the way, and while the food was very good, I’m not entirely convinced it’s worth a special trip if you’re short on time. If you’re nearby, absolutely stop. If not, you’ll still eat very well elsewhere in the city.
Osh Markazi No. 1 (Plov Center No. 1)
This was the standout food experience of Samarkand—and honestly,it was the best plov we ate during our entire Central Asia trip.
It’s well outside the tourist center, but easy to reach with Yandex. When we went, we appeared to be the only non-locals in the place, which is always a promising sign. The system is simple and perfect: you grab a table, choose from small bowls of accompaniments (yogurts, tomato salad, pickles), get fresh bread, and then choose your plov—lamb or beef.
Samarkand plov is traditionally beef, so that’s what we ordered. It was exceptional. Deeply flavorful, perfectly balanced, rich without being too heavy. The kind of meal where you stop talking halfway through because chewing requires your full attention.
If you do only one food-focused detour in Samarkand, make it this one.
One general tip: as elsewhere in Uzbekistan, Yandex Maps is far more useful than Google Maps for food. It’s what locals use, and the reviews tend to be more accurate and less inflated by tourist enthusiasm. If a place is well-rated on Yandex and full of locals, you’re almost certainly in good hands.
Samarkand rewards curiosity at the table. Follow the crowds, trust the smoke coming off the grills, and don’t be afraid to ride a little farther for a meal that’s clearly being cooked for the city itself, not for visitors passing through.
What To Do in Samarkand
When I told people we were going to travel in Central Asia, I was often met with blank stares.
“Where?”
“What is in Central Asia?”
My go to move was to whip out my phone and summon up images of the old Timurid monuments of Samarkand. The Registan. The Gur-I Amir. The Shah-I Zindah. These places were more than impressive enough to satisfy people of the worth of heading to Uzbekistan.
So when in Samarkand, here is a list of a few things to do.
Registan
If Samarkand has a soul, it lives here.
The Registan is a monumental city square framed by three madrassas that look less like buildings and more like declarations of civilizational confidence. Blue tile, soaring portals, geometric precision, and a sense that someone, centuries ago, decided subtlety was overrated.
To enter the complex itself, you’ll need a ticket (100,000 som / about $8.20US in summer 2025), and it’s only open during set hours. Despite what you may read online, it opened at 7:00 AM when we were there—not 8:00. Go early. If you do, you might find yourself nearly alone in one of the most extraordinary public spaces on the planet.
Even when the complex is closed, the south-side viewing area is open 24 hours a day, and it’s worth visiting multiple times. In the evening, the space transforms into something else entirely: families strolling, kids playing, couples lingering, tourists snapping photos, and a festive, communal energy that feels more like a neighborhood gathering than a landmark.
At night, there’s a full light-and-sound show. The madrassas are dramatically illuminated, narration booms in Uzbek, and the whole square feels theatrical in the best possible way. Grab an ice cream cone, claim a spot on the steps, and just take it all in.
Bibi-Khanym Mosque
Built on a scale that borders on audacious, this mosque was meant to awe—and still does. It’s easy to see why many believe it inspired the Taj Mahal. The courtyard alone feels oversized for human ambition. I didn’t know whether to be awed by the beauty or the sheer size of the place. Neither choice could be faulted.
There is a ticket booth on site, and the fee is 50,000 som/$4.10US.
Gur-i Amir
This is the resting place of Timur (Tamerlane), and it feels appropriately weighty. The exterior is imposing, but the interior is the real payoff—elegant, restrained, and deeply atmospheric. This is where Samarkand’s imperial history crystallizes into something tangible.
There is a ticket booth on site, and the fee is 50,000 som/$4.10US.
Aksaray Mausoleum
From the outside, this place barely registers. Inside, it’s a stunner.
We arrived without much expectation and found a man at the gate who collected a small fee (10,000som/less than $1US) and ushered us in. The ceiling is the highlight—intricate, luminous, and unexpectedly beautiful. There’s a turntable placed directly beneath the apex of the dome where you can set your phone and record a rotating video that captures the ceiling perfectly. It’s a bit gimmicky, sure—but also undeniably cool.
There’s also a small catacomb you can duck into below, adding a quiet, slightly eerie counterpoint to the elegance above.
Shah-i-Zinda
This place is unreal.
Shah-i-Zinda is a necropolis—a city of the dead—lined with some of the most exquisite blue tilework you’ll see anywhere in Central Asia. Mausoleums cluster along a narrow path, each one competing (successfully) for your attention.
Go just before sunset. You’ll see the tiles glow softly in the fading light, and then—almost imperceptibly—the complex shifts as evening lighting comes on. The transformation is magical. For photographers, this place is dangerous in the best way. I could have spent days here without running out of compositions.
There is a ticket booth on site, and the fee is 50,000 som/$4.10US.
Ulugh Beg Observatory
Once one of the most important astronomical centers in the world, this site offers a glimpse into Samarkand’s intellectual history. The remains of Ulugh Beg’s massive sextant are impressive, and the museum provides helpful context. It’s not as visually overwhelming as other sites—but it adds depth to the story of the city.
The entry fee is 50,000 som/$4.10US.
Tomb of the Prophet Daniel
This one didn’t quite land for us.
The tomb itself is large in size but smaller in impact, and while it’s an important pilgrimage site, it felt more subdued than many of Samarkand’s other attractions. That said, the ancient pistachio tree nearby is genuinely impressive, and walking through the cemetery behind the tomb offers a quieter, more contemplative experience. Worth visiting if you have time, but not essential.
The entry fee is 30,000 som/$2.46US.
Afrasiab
Afrasiab is the archaeological site of ancient Samarkand—the city that existed before Timur rebuilt it elsewhere. The site itself is expansive and windswept, but the real highlight is the Afrasiab Museum, which houses remarkable murals and artifacts that bring the old city to life. This is where Samarkand’s deep past becomes legible.
Eternal City
Think of this as a Silk Road theme park.
The Eternal City is a polished, Disney-like recreation of an old trading city—clean, curated, and intentionally atmospheric. Some people will love it. Others will find it a little too stage-managed. If you’re curious, it’s worth a quick look, but it doesn’t replace the real thing scattered across Samarkand.
Samarkand rewards patience and repetition. Visit sites at different times of day. Return to places you thought you were “done” with. Sit. Watch. Listen. This is a city that doesn’t reveal itself all at once—and that’s exactly what makes it unforgettable.
How Long to Spend in Samarkand
For most travelers, 2–3 days in Samarkand is a very reasonable plan.
In that amount of time, you can see the major highlights—the Registan, Shah-i-Zinda, Gur-i Amir, Bibi-Khanym—without feeling too rushed, and still have space for a few unstructured wanderings, long lunches, and evening returns to the Registan when the light (and mood) changes.
That said, Samarkand is a city that can reward slowness.
We spent five days here, and for us it was perfect. It meant we could visit sites early in the morning, retreat during the brutal midday heat, and then head back out in the late afternoon when the city softened again. It meant returning to places like the Registan and Shah-i-Zinda multiple times, watching how they transformed with different light and different crowds. It meant not treating Samarkand like a checklist, but like a place to inhabit—if only briefly.
You absolutely don’t need five days. Some travelers might feel restless with that much time, especially if they prefer fast-paced itineraries or are hopping quickly between Silk Road cities. But if you enjoy lingering, photography, early mornings, or simply sitting somewhere extraordinary and letting it sink in, Samarkand can hold your attention longer than you might expect.
In short:
2 days: efficient and highlights-focused
3 days: comfortable and well-paced
4–5 days: unhurried, immersive, and deeply satisfying
Samarkand isn’t going anywhere. But giving it a little extra time allows it to meet you halfway—and that’s often when the best travel moments happen.
Dress and Behavior in Samarkand
Samarkand is welcoming, relaxed, and surprisingly easy to navigate as a visitor—but it’s also a city layered with history, faith, and living tradition. Dressing and behaving with a bit of awareness goes a long way, and it’s really not difficult.
Dress:
Samarkand is not especially strict, but modesty is appreciated—especially at religious sites.
Shoulders and knees covered is a good baseline for both men and women when visiting mosques, mausoleums, and shrines.
Women do not generally need to cover their hair, though having a light scarf handy is smart if you want to be extra respectful or feel more comfortable in sacred spaces.
In the summer, it’s brutally hot, so think lightweight, breathable fabrics rather than heavy coverage. Loose linen pants, airy shirts, and sun protection matter more than fashion.
You’ll see plenty of locals dressed casually in modern clothes, especially younger people. You don’t need to cosplay a Silk Road merchant—but you also don’t need to push boundaries.
Behavior:
Uzbekistan, and Samarkand in particular, feels polite and calm.
Speak softly in religious spaces and follow posted rules about photography. Some interiors allow photos, others don’t, and enforcement can be… inconsistent. When in doubt, ask or watch what locals do.
If someone asks for a small fee to enter a site, pay it without fuss. It’s rarely much, and getting annoyed about a few thousand som isn’t a great look. If you don’t want to pay, just politely excuse yourself and leave.
People are generally friendly but not pushy. A smile, a nod, and basic courtesy go a long way.
Ask before photographing people, especially older locals or anyone engaged in prayer. Many will say yes. Some won’t. Both answers are fine.
One thing we noticed: Samarkand has a strong sense of public dignity. Kids play, families stroll, tourists gawk—but there’s an underlying calm to how people share space. Matching that tone—unhurried, observant, respectful—helps you blend in naturally.
Dress sensibly. Act kindly. Pay attention.
Do those things, and Samarkand opens itself to you without friction.
Samarkand is one of those places that lives on a grand scale. Empires rose and fell here. Astronomers measured the heavens. Mosaics were laid with the confidence of people who assumed their work would still be admired centuries later. And yet, what lingers most isn’t just the scale—it’s the quiet moments threaded through it all.
It’s the pre-dawn walk to the Registan when the city is still half asleep. The echo of your footsteps on ancient stone. The way the blue tile shifts color as the sun finally crests the horizon. It’s sitting on a bench with a bottle of water, watching families drift through Shah-i-Zinda at sunset, the past and present sharing the same narrow pathway.
Samarkand rewards patience. It asks you to slow down, to return to the same places at different hours, to notice how light, sound, and people transform spaces you thought you already understood. The monuments are extraordinary—but the experience comes from inhabiting them, not just ticking them off a list.
That’s why I’ll remember Samarkand not only for its architecture or its history, but because travel gave me the rare luxury of time—time to sit alone in one of the world’s great squares, time to wander without urgency, and time to feel briefly woven into a city that has been welcoming strangers for more than two thousand years.
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