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Touching Time at Angkor Wat and Ta Prohm

  • Writer: Rand Blimes
    Rand Blimes
  • Apr 27
  • 3 min read

Updated: Apr 28


A massive tree grows atop the crumbling ruins of the ancient Khmer temple of Ta Prohm
A massive tree grows atop the temple of Ta Prohm


Finding Solitude and Awe Among Cambodia's Ancient Temples

 

I went to Cambodia, more or less, to see Angkor Wat. When I planned my trip, I didn't know that Phnom Penh would become one of my favorite cities in the world (it did). I didn't know that the bamboo railway outside Battambang would be surprisingly fun (it was). And I would have guessed deep-fried tarantula would be awful (it wasn't). What I did know was that in the middle of Cambodia was one of the world's great archaeological treasures.

 

And let me explain something about myself. I have always been a super nerd when it comes to old stuff. I wanted to be an archaeologist way before Indiana Jones made it cool. I remember the girl sitting next to me in middle school making fun of me for practicing writing ancient Egyptian hieroglyphs on the back of my notebook in English class. I sigh and roll my eyes at people who only learned about the existence of the ancient Khmer temples from Angelina Jolie.

 

When I was a kid, I always had to touch the old stuff in museums. Statues, carvings, vases — anything at the museum that wasn't behind glass was liable to get felt up as I walked by. And if you want to know the truth, that whole "when I was a kid" part is just a lie. I still do it. I am in my 50s and have a doctorate. I am a reasonably respectable member of society . . .  but I still am compelled to touch old stuff. I know I shouldn't, but I just . . . have to . . . touch . . . I probably need a therapist, but that is another matter.

 

If you are like me at all, Angkor could be your dream come true. With a little planning.

 

If you visit, you will probably be staying in Siem Reap. Try to get to Angkor early. And you need to know that Angkor, the town, is far more than Angkor Wat, the temple. Angkor is massive. We hired a tuk-tuk and spent three days driving from temple to temple.

 

When you get to Angkor early, most people will head to Angkor Wat to watch the sunrise. We didn't ever do this. We watched the sunset at Angkor Wat, but never sunrise. Sunrise should be a time of peace and quiet. Standing in front of Angkor Wat, jockeying with all the other tourists for prime location for taking that iconic picture is not my idea of peace and quiet.



Sunset on the ancient temple of Angkor Wat sitting behind a small lake
Close to sunset at Angkor Wat


A Quiet Morning at Ta Prohm

 

Head to Ta Prohm instead. Ta Prohm was my favorite temple at Angkor. You have probably seen pictures of the massive trees growing on top of crumbling temples. Ta Prohm is the best (of several) examples of temple + tree + time = AWESOME!!! (NOTE: in the time since my visit, at least of the massive trees that grew atop them crumbling temples had to be cut down.)

 

And the best thing is, at dawn you can have Ta Prohm all to yourself. My family spent a good thirty minutes at Ta Prohm before a single other person showed up. Solitude at the center of Angkor is not something you often find. But we found it at Ta Prohm.

 

We were able to sit quietly and let the atmosphere wash over us. I was able to set my tripod up without having to push, bite, and stab a horde of other photographers. And then we wandered, quietly, without seeing another person, through the ruins.




 

I touched everything! I was, of course, very careful. The temples are old and need to be protected for future generations. I didn't climb on the walls, carve my name, or take a hunk home as a souvenir. And neither should you.

 

I touched gently. I felt the cold pulse of the years through which the walls have stood. I touched with love, and respect, and awe. Because, truth be told, I was in love.

 

Because travel can unleash a deep passion for past, present, and future.



Three monks walk down the stairs of a ruined Cambodian temple at Angkor Wat
Monks walking through the Angkor complex in the early morning

 

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