Nuts and Bolts: Romania Road Trip Tips

Early morning street in the middle of Brașov

Nuts and Bolts posts give you the practical information you need, but without stripping away the humor, mishaps, and little victories that make real travel what it is. These aren’t just guides. They’re how we actually did it—mistakes, triumphs, and all.

This page has some travel tips for a self-drive road trip through Romania to aid in planning your own trip. I did my one-week road trip in Romania, focused on Transylvania, in August 2023. If your road trip in Romania is significantly longer/shorter/with a different focus, you may have a very different experience.

---

Some countries are best explored by train. In my opinion, Romania is not one of them. If you really want to get to know this place—not just the cities and castles, but the haystacks, the horse carts, the villages with hand-painted wells and dogs that nap in the middle of the road, and fortified churches rising above it all—you need your own wheels. A Romanian road trip opens up parts of the country you’d never reach otherwise, places where the rhythm of life hasn’t changed much in decades. I rented a car, plotted a rough route focused mostly on Transylvania, and set off solo across hills, forests, and one-lane mountain passes that may or may not have technically been roads. This post pulls together some of the information you should know before starting a similar journey.

Rental & Driving Basics for a Romania Road Trip

International Driver’s License: Technically Required

In theory, Romania does require an International Driving Permit (IDP) to accompany your national license.

Now, in practice? Mine was never checked. But that doesn’t mean you should skip it. If you show up at the counter without one, the rental agency can legally deny you the car, and if you get pulled over, it could turn into a real problem. An IDP costs about $20 and takes 10 minutes to get—just do it.

Rental Pickup: Airports Are Easier (Usually)

I picked up my car at the airport, which is usually the right move—rates are better, hours are longer, and you’ve got a wider choice of agencies.

That said, not all rental agencies are created equal. I booked through Priceline, with a company called MEX Rent A Car. What followed was a low-stakes travel nightmare. The confirmation listed a phone number—no answer. It gave me an address—no office was there. I asked around. No one had heard of them. A kind taxi driver helped me search, but eventually, I gave up and booked with a different agency on the spot. And Priceline? Zero sympathy.

So here’s the takeaway: avoid MEX, avoid Priceline, and go with a known agency with an on-site desk at the airport—ideally one whose name someone in the country has actually heard of.

Manual vs. Automatic

Most cars in Romania are manual transmission. If you drive stick, great—your options just multiplied, and your price should be reasonable. If you need an automatic, book early and double-check that your confirmation actually guarantees one. Automatics are in short supply, and they go fast, especially in summer or during school holidays. And the mountainous roads of Romania are not a great place to learn to drive a stick.

Rovinietă (Road Tax Sticker)

Romania requires a vignette (rovinietă) for driving on national roads and highways. This is simply a sticker that goes on your windshield. Most rental agencies take care of this automatically and include it in your rental—but ask at pickup to be sure. You don’t want to find out the hard way that you’re missing one after rolling through a digital toll camera.

If for some reason your car doesn’t have one, you can buy a vignette at gas stations, border crossings, or online. Prices are low (about €3–5 for a week), and enforcement is mostly through automatic license plate scanners. In other words, you won’t know you’ve been fined until it shows up weeks later in your email. Better to just confirm up front.

Sibiu, Romania

Roads and Driving Conditions

Driving in Romania is an experience—sometimes charming, sometimes nerve-wracking, occasionally both at once. It’s not a country where you want to zone out behind the wheel, but if you stay alert and flexible, it can be a great way to explore places that buses don’t reach and trains don’t try.

Romania is a right-hand driving country.

Cross-Border Caution

If you're doing a multi-country road trip, you need to know this up front: some rental companies do not allow their cars to enter Romania, or they’ll tack on extra fees, restrictions, or paperwork. If you're renting in another European country, don’t assume Romania is included in your cross-border permissions.

Check the fine print before you book. Some companies will charge a cross-border fee or require advance approval, and others will flat-out prohibit entry into non-Schengen countries like Romania. Ignore this at your peril—your insurance may not cover you, and you could end up having to scramble for a new car at the border.

Road Conditions

Romanian roads are a mixed bag. Main highways and regional roads are usually decent, especially around major cities and tourist hubs. But once you get out into the countryside—and you should—you’ll start encountering:

• Potholes that look like they’ve survived two world wars.

• One-lane bridges with no signage to indicate who goes first.

• Curving mountain passes where the guardrails are more of a suggestion than a barrier. Some mountain roads will close completely in winter.

• And, every so often, a horse-drawn cart plodding calmly down the shoulder like it owns the road. Because, in some ways, it does.

Rural roads can go from pavement to gravel to crumbling concrete in under 500 meters. Don’t trust Google Maps’ time estimates. That “1.5-hour” drive might be accurate, or it might be an optimistic work of fiction.

City Driving

Cities are where things can get a bit more... energetic. Lanes are loosely observed. Signage is inconsistent. Drivers are aggressive and not particularly patient with slow-moving outsiders. If you're confident and decisive, you’ll be fine. If you hesitate, expect horns.

That said, Romanian drivers are often more aware than they seem. They’ll fly past you on a narrow curve, sure—but they’ll usually give just enough space and make it look easy. It’s reckless, but skilled. Try not to take it personally if driving is different where you are from.

Small road through Biertan, Romania

Night Driving

Avoid it if you can. Street lighting in rural areas is rare, and road markings can fade to nothing. Add in stray dogs (and in the mountains, bears!), sudden curves, and the occasional unlit tractor, and you’re better off being parked by dusk unless you’re somewhere familiar.

Gas Stations and Toilets

Gas stations are plentiful on main roads and near towns. Most are open late or 24/7, and many take credit cards. But once you're out in the sticks, things thin out quickly. Top off when you get below half a tank just to be safe.

Toilets? Major gas station tend to have fairly well-maintained toilets. Things can get sketchy in rural areas.

Driving in Romania can be unpredictable, but it’s also what gets you to fortified churches, remote villages, and misty mountain roads you’d never see otherwise. Just keep your tank full, your reflexes sharp, and your expectations flexible.

Towns, Routes & Planning

Romania looks compact on the map, but don’t be fooled—it can take longer to get places than you think, especially once you’re off the main highways. That’s not a bad thing. It’s just a country that rewards slower travel and a little flexibility.

Don't Overpack Your Itinerary

Distances aren’t the issue. It’s the curving roads, the traffic through towns (or even popular mountain areas, like the Transfăgărășan Highway), and the occasional herd of goats. Even a 100-kilometer stretch can take two or three hours, depending on road quality and how often you feel like stopping for photos, pastries, or whatever small village surprise you just passed.

I would say plan on visiting fewer places and staying longer. Two or three nights per hub lets you unpack, wander a bit, and see something beyond the parking lot and the nearest restaurant.

Towns Worth Building Around

Here are a few places that make excellent bases, each with a distinct feel:

• Brașov – A popular first stop, especially if you’re coming from Bucharest. It’s tourist-friendly but still feels lived-in. Great access to castles, mountains, and medieval villages. This is one of my favorite towns in Europe.

• Sibiu – Smaller and more elegant. Cobblestones, pastel buildings, and a low-key café culture. Makes a great base for exploring the Transfăgărășan Highway or rural southern Transylvania. Full of Romania’s distinctive villages that look like they are watching you.

• Sighișoara – Possibly the most photogenic town in Romania. Small, walkable, and packed with charm. One or two nights is enough unless you want to slow way down. Be ware that Sighi can be absolutely packed with tourists. I actually preferred Brașov largely because Sighi was so crowded.

• Maramureș villages – Wooden churches, rolling green hills, and a real sense of old Romania. Stay in a guesthouse and let the hosts feed you. You won’t regret it.

• Bucovina – If you’re venturing northeast, this is where the painted monasteries live. It feels further off the tourist trail, and in many ways, it is.

Some Scenic Routes to Consider

• Transfăgărășan Highway – Famously called “the best driving road in the world” by Top Gear. Only open in summer. High altitude, dramatic views, and loads of switchbacks. Expect bears and traffic jams along with fantastic views.

• Transalpina Road – Another spectacular mountain drive. Less crowded than Transfăgărășan, often considered more “wild.”

• Saxon Villages Loop – Includes Viscri, Biertan, and other small towns with fortified churches and cobbled lanes. Great day trips from Brașov or Sibiu. I actually spent a night in Biertan so I could do sunrise photography at the fortified church.

The famous Transfăgărășan Highway 

A Few Practical Planning Tips

• Watch for closures – Some sites, especially castles and museums, are randomly closed one day a week. Monday is the usual suspect, but not always. Double-check opening hours online.

• Offline maps are your friend – Cell service can vanish fast in rural areas. Download Google Maps offline or use an app like Maps.me.

• Parking isn’t usually a problem – But it’s often not obvious either. Expect narrow streets and a bit of a hunt in town centers. It can be a problem in places like Sighișoara.

Lodging Tips

Romania is one of the few places in Europe where you can still find a great room for a shockingly reasonable price. Whether you're into charming pensions, guesthouses run by grandma, or simple budget hotels that get the job done, this is a country where your money goes far—as long as you choose wisely.

Booking Strategy

You can usually find good places through agoda.com or Airbnb, especially in tourist towns. If you’re planning a flexible trip, it’s often fine to book one or two days ahead, especially outside of summer or national holidays. If you're traveling in peak season (July/August), book earlier for the more popular towns like Brașov or Sighișoara.

Tip: Don’t rely on agoda.com’s map to determine where the town center is. Some listings say they’re “in Brașov” when they’re actually up a mountain road 15 minutes away.

Guesthouses and Pensions

In many places, especially in Maramureș or rural Transylvania, family-run guesthouses are the way to go. These aren’t just places to sleep—they’re experiences. You might be welcomed with homemade jam, a glass of freshly squeezed juice, and an unsolicited second dinner. There is usually a cat. Or ten.

Don’t expect high-end amenities, but do expect warmth and real hospitality. If meals are offered, say yes. Romanian home cooking, served in someone’s backyard under grapevines, beats anything you’ll find at a highway restaurant.

Hotels vs Apartments

Hotels are hit-or-miss outside the cities. In larger towns like Cluj or Bucharest, you’ll find a range of modern hotels with solid service. But elsewhere, the “hotel” label can cover everything from newly renovated to “hosted a Dracula-themed wedding in 1994 and hasn’t changed since.”

Apartments and Airbnb-style places are plentiful and often a good deal if you want your own space. Just keep in mind: self-check-in isn't always the norm here. Be ready to coordinate by phone or WhatsApp, and maybe wait 10–15 minutes (or more) for someone to arrive with the key.

A Few Extra Notes

• No AC? Double-check. Many places, especially in older buildings, won’t have air conditioning. Not usually a problem in the mountains, but in the lowlands in July, it can matter.

• Stairs happen. Elevators are not a given. If you don’t pack light, you’ll never regret it more than when climbing to the fifth floor of a charming-but-elevatorless pension.

• Parking is often available, but not always obvious. If you're road-tripping, look for listings that specifically mention “free on-site parking.”

• Finding food can be tricky in the small towns. You will be fine in larger tourist towns like Brașov or Sighișoara (or even Bran), but that tiny village you are staying at because of the fortified church? You may be hard pressed to find a place to eat. Having meals included with your lodging can be useful in these places.

  
  

Lodging in Romania might not all be five-star luxury, but it punches way above its price point in character and charm. And if you end up sleeping under hand-stitched blankets with embroidered pillows while a rooster crows somewhere in the distance—well, welcome to rural Romania. You’re doing it right.

Food, Language & Culture

Romania has a way of growing on you—one spoonful of sour soup, one friendly cashier, one slow-moving conversation at a bus stop at a time. This is a country where the culture is felt more than performed, and the food hits that perfect balance of hearty and comforting.

Food: Slow, Filling, and Often Delicious

Romanian food is carb-forward, meat-heavy, and unapologetically filling. You’ll see some Turkish influence (grills, kofta), a bit of Hungarian spice, and plenty of Austro-Hungarian dishes that come with sour cream on the side—no matter whether it makes sense or not.

Typical things you’ll run into:

• Sarmale – Cabbage rolls stuffed with meat and rice, usually served with polenta and sour cream. Comfort food in its highest form.

• Ciorbă de burtă – A sour tripe soup. You’ll either love it or... not. But it’s worth trying once.

• Mămăligă – Cornmeal mush (aka polenta), often the starch sidekick for meat stews or cheese dishes.

• Mici (or Mititei) – Skinless grilled sausages. Spiced, juicy, served with mustard and bread. You’ll smell them before you see them.

Portions are large. Prices are low. And menus often include pages of variations on pork, potatoes, and pickles. If you’re vegetarian, it’s not impossible—but you’ll need to be deliberate (especially in the countryside). Lentil soups and cheesy pastries exist, but so do confusing salads with surprise ham.

Language: Romanian 101

Romanian looks vaguely Slavic on paper, but it’s a Romance language—closer to Italian or Latin than Russian. It shares roots with French and Spanish, though it’s got some phonetic curveballs.

Most young people speak at least basic English, especially in cities or tourist towns. In rural areas, expect blank stares, then friendly effort. A few Romanian words go a long way:

·       Bună ziua – Hello

·       Mulțumesc – Thank you

·       Da / Nu – Yes / No

·       Notă, vă rog – The check, please

Even if pronunciation is a mess, people appreciate the effort. Most won’t correct you—they’ll just smile and respond in better English than you expected.

Culture: Reserved but Warm

At first glance, Romanians may seem quiet, a little formal, maybe even distant. Don’t let it fool you. Under that first layer is real warmth, wry humor, and an intense pride in place and tradition.

You won’t find a lot of scripted friendliness. No one’s trying to "enhance your customer journey." But people notice. People care. And if you need help, someone will almost always step in—usually without fanfare, often without words.

A Quick Note on Rural Areas

In rural parts of Romania, restaurants and grocery stores can be surprisingly scarce. Some villages don’t have a single place to eat out, and shops may keep irregular hours—or be closed entirely on Sundays. If you’re heading somewhere remote, it’s smart to pick up snacks or supplies in a larger town before you go, and don’t assume you’ll be able to grab dinner on arrival. When in doubt, ask your guesthouse in advance if meals are available—you’ll often end up with something homemade and far better than anything you’d have found at a gas station anyway.

Romania doesn't perform for tourists. It lets you find your own way in—through backroads, quiet conversations, and a bowl of something slow-cooked and heavy. It's not always easy. But it’s rarely indifferent. And that, in its own way, is the best kind of welcome.

The fortified church at Biertan

General Advice

Romania is a fantastic country for road tripping, but it rewards a little flexibility, a bit of patience, and a willingness to roll with whatever happens. Here are a few tips to help everything go just a bit more smoothly:

Don’t Overplan

There’s no need to fill every day with sights and reservations. Romania has a rhythm of its own, and you’ll enjoy it more if you leave space for detours, long lunches, missed signs, and the occasional sheep traffic jam. Some of the best moments come when you’re not rushing to the next thing.

Sundays Are Quiet

In smaller towns and villages, Sunday can feel like a national nap. Shops close early (if they open at all), and restaurants may or may not be serving. Plan accordingly—whether that means stocking up on snacks or making sure your guesthouse will feed you.

Be Ready to Pay in Cash

Card payments are common in cities and tourist areas, but cash still rules in rural Romania. Guesthouses, roadside markets, and small-town restaurants may not take cards—or may say they do and then mysteriously "have a problem with the machine." Always carry some cash, especially if you're headed off the main tourist path.

Google Maps Isn’t Always Right

It usually works. Until it doesn’t. Expect the occasional mislabeling, outdated road, or overly optimistic time estimate. Download offline maps if you’re heading into the mountains or anywhere remote.

People Are More Helpful Than They Look

Romanians often come across as reserved at first—but ask for help, and help will come. It might be quiet and practical, not loud and chatty, but people notice when you’re lost or confused and often step in with help. Learn to recognize help when it arrives in the form of a gesture, a nod, or someone silently turning around to lead you where you need to go.

Say Yes to the Slow Stuff

Stop for the view. Wander through the village. Accept the awkward invitation to walk through someone’s garden or look at their chickens. Romania is a country that opens slowly, and the less you're trying to force it, the more it gives you.

You don’t have to be fluent in Romanian, or an ace behind the wheel, or even entirely sure where you're going next. You just have to be present, patient, and curious. That’s enough here.

---

Road tripping through Romania isn’t just a way to get from place to place—it’s a way to access the rural heart of the country, where time moves slower, where villages still ring church bells by hand, and where the real charm lives far from train lines and bus routes. It’s not always easy, and it’s rarely efficient—but it’s worth it. Because travel isn’t about moving fast. It’s about getting far enough off the map to feel the quiet beauty most people miss. Romania makes you earn it. And that’s exactly why it stays with you.

Bran Castle