Nuts and Bolts: Travel Tips for a Safari in the Masai Mara
- Rand Blimes
- May 25
- 10 min read
Nuts and Bolts posts give you the practical information you need, but without stripping away the humor, mishaps, and little victories that make real travel what it is. These aren’t just guides. They’re how we actually did it—mistakes, triumphs, and all.
This page has some travel tips for going on a safari in in the Masai Mara to aid in planning your own trip. I travel mainly with my wife, and we usually love to simply wander and eat when we explore a new place, but, of course, we came to Kenya primarily for the animals (especially the wildebeest migration). We were on safari in Kenya for four days in in July, 2021. If your safari is significantly longer/shorter/with a different focus, you may have a very different experience.
Welcome to the Hunt
My chest tightened. Not quite shortness of breath—but something. I had to focus, had to consciously will my body to inhale. I knew this kind of thing happened every day. It had to. But I still couldn’t believe I was watching it.
Beside me, my wife turned away and wiped a tear from her eye.
I just sat there. Stunned. Silent. Watching.
A zebra—sprawled in the dust right in front of us—was struggling to draw one final breath. But the lion had its jaws locked tight around the zebra’s neck. Its grip was absolute. It knew exactly what to do. There was no hesitation. No mercy. Just the quiet, calculated patience of a predator born knowing how to kill.
The zebra never had a chance.
And right there, only a few meters in front of me, life turned into death.
That was the moment I understood the circle of life—not as metaphor or metaphorical Disney chorus, but like a punch to the gut. Viscerally. Unforgettably.
Chasing the Wildebeest Migration
I wanted to see the migration.
That was one of the core reasons we built our trip around East Africa in the first place. I’d seen the documentaries, flipped through the photo books—the ones with endless herds spilling across golden plains, dust clouds rising behind them looking like a trailing wildfire. I wanted to witness that great, pulsing river of life for myself. Not as a still image. Not with a voiceover. But with my own eyes.
The Great Migration is one of the largest and most dramatic wildlife movements on Earth. Each year, more than a million wildebeest, along with zebra and gazelle in great numbers, follow the rains in a vast, slow-motion loop through Tanzania’s Serengeti and Kenya’s Masai Mara. It’s a cycle older than memory—driven by the simple need to eat, to move, to survive.
At different times of year, the herds are in different places. In January and February, they calve in the southern Serengeti in Tanzania. In June, they begin drifting north. And by July and August, they gather like a tide at the edge of the Mara River, hesitating, surging, and eventually crossing the river into Kenya.
And that’s where we wanted to be.
Since we’d be traveling in July, the choice was clear: Kenya. We would go to the Masai Mara, hoping to catch that moment when the landscape ripples with movement—when animals pour across the horizon in long, deliberate waves, and the land seems to breathe.
We wanted to see the wildebeests in the hundreds of thousands. And we wanted to see the predators that followed the herds like they were an all you can eat buffet.
How to Book a Safari in the Masai Mara
To be honest, I wasn’t even sure if it was possible to do a truly independent safari in Kenya. Maybe it is. But between permit logistics, vehicle requirements, and the fact that the wildlife here includes things with fangs, claws, and short tempers, I didn’t feel any burning desire to test that theory.
For our Uganda safari, I had used SafariBookings.com, a massive aggregator that lists hundreds of operators across East Africa. It worked well there, so I turned to it again for Kenya.
I followed the same strategy I’d used before: I sent out a handful of emails to different outfitters, asking a few specific questions. Nothing complicated—just enough to see who responded promptly and professionally. That alone told me what I needed to know. If a company doesn’t get back to you before they have your money, odds are they’re not going to be super responsive after they do.
We ended up booking a four-day safari with Jockey Tours, which included pickup and drop-off in Nairobi, four days of game drives, all park fees, lodging (in a semi-fancy “tent”), and all meals and water—all for about $600 per person. Not bad, especially given that someone else was handling the logistics, the park entry, the lodging, and—most importantly—the driving.
The only real decision we had to make was whether or not to spring for a four-wheel drive vehicle. I asked whether we’d need one. The answer came back: “Probably not.” That was enough to convince us to save a bit and skip it.
Which is how we found ourselves stuck in a creek crossing, wheels spinning helplessly in the mud. A pair of large crocodiles were upstream. A leopard was lounging nearby in the shade of a tree, watching us with what I assume was a mixture of boredom and culinary curiosity.
Fortunately, another vehicle came by and winched us out, and the story ended with muddy shoes instead of headlines.
So yes—you can do a safari without overthinking it. You don’t need a luxury tent with brass fixtures and chilled champagne. But ask questions, book with someone responsive, and think carefully before skipping the 4WD.
What We Saw in the Masai Mara
At some point in the Masai Mara, you almost start to take it for granted. Zebras, wildebeests, giraffes—so many, so often, that they begin to fade into the background. And yet … there’s something staggering about seeing the plains stretch to the horizon, a sea of movement, striped and spotted and hooved, flowing across the land like some ancient, breathing tide.
We had barely been in the park fifteen minutes when our driver-guide got a call on the radio and took off like a man on a mission. A lone cheetah had been spotted, lounging in the shade of a tree. We learned this cheetah had once hunted with his brother, but recently the brother had been injured—internal damage sustained during a hunt—and died. Now the surviving cheetah was alone, lean and alert, but resting.
Later, from across a gully, I saw a cheetah explode into motion. It was 150 meters away, but the way it launched from stillness into a low, liquid blur of movement was unforgettable. I couldn’t even identify a potential prey that may have been the target of this burst. Maybe it was showing off? Either way, it was pure power in motion.
We saw lions every day we were in the park. One morning, we watched a lioness peel off from a pride and bring down a zebra in front of us. Another day, we found a lone male, hidden in tall grass near a fresh kill, possessive and silent. Once, a group of lions came sauntering down the road toward our vehicle. One male lion walked right past the van, close enough that I could have reached out and touched him.
I didn’t.
I like living.
We also got lucky with leopards. One lounged in the shade, just three meters from our vehicle. Another had draped itself lazily in the branches of a tree—the very same tree we got stuck near during our creek-crossing mishap. There is nothing quite like troubleshooting your off-roading problems while a leopard watches from above.
As for the migration itself—we had hoped to see a river crossing, that iconic moment when wildebeests throw themselves across the Mara River, dodging crocodiles and trampling one another in a chaotic, desperate surge. Our driver stayed in radio contact with the rangers at the river every day, but no major crossings happened while we were there.
We did, however, visit the river and see the aftermath of a previous crossing: disturbed earth, broken banks, tension in the air, and a long dead wildebeest in the river, being gently, almost lovingly nudged by a crocodile.
We also saw the bloated corpse of a hippo, baking in the sun, partly in the river. We smelled it long before we saw it. A cluster of crocodiles lay nearby, clearly interested—but not too interested. Other hippos were still guarding the area, and even a croc knows better than to provoke a bereaved hippo.
We saw elephants here and there—mothers and calves, lone bulls in the trees—but nothing like the massive herds we’d encountered in Kruger.
Weather and When to Go
There’s really no bad time to visit the Masai Mara—but there are definitely different experiences depending on when you go.
The dry seasons—roughly July to October and January to February—offer the most predictable game viewing. Animals congregate around water sources, the grass is shorter, and visibility is better for spotting wildlife. July through September also brings the great wildebeest migration into the Mara from the Serengeti, with the iconic river crossings usually happening from late July through early September, depending on rainfall.
The green seasons, particularly March to May, bring heavier rains. The landscape is lush and dramatic, and there are far fewer tourists, which means better prices and more solitude. But some roads can get muddy and difficult, and animal sightings may be more spread out.
We visited in July, at the start of the migration’s peak, and it was a great call. Cool mornings, warm afternoons, and only the occasional patch of dramatic, brooding skies—perfect light for photography, and just enough adventure (read: getting stuck in a creek) to remind you that this is still very much the wild.
Entry Requirements for Kenya
Most travelers, including those from the U.S., Canada, U.K., EU, Australia, and many other countries, need an electronic travel authorization (eTA) to enter Kenya. The old e-visa system has been replaced as of 2024. You can apply for the eTA online at etakenya.go.ke, and approval usually takes 2–3 business days, though it’s best to apply at least a week in advance. You’ll need a valid passport with at least six months of validity, your flight details, and proof of accommodation or tour booking.
If you’re planning to visit multiple countries in the region—like Kenya, Uganda, and Rwanda—consider applying for the East Africa Tourist Visa instead. It allows multiple entries between those three countries for up to 90 days, and costs $100 USD.
You must apply through the country you’ll be entering first. So if you’re starting your trip in Kenya, you’ll apply through the Kenyan immigration portal, and the visa will be valid for onward travel to Uganda and Rwanda without needing additional visas.
It’s an especially smart choice if your safari itinerary crosses borders—or if you, like us, couldn’t resist seeing gorillas and big cats in the same trip.
Health Requirements
Kenya does not require any specific vaccinations for entry unless you are arriving from a country with risk of yellow fever transmission, in which case a yellow fever certificate is mandatory.
That said, there are a few highly recommended precautions for travelers:
Malaria prevention is important, especially if you’re visiting areas outside Nairobi (like the Mara). Many travelers take antimalarial medication. While we took antimalarials in Uganda, we skipped them in Kenya since we were there in the dry season and stuck to the plains. Just make sure you look into the issue and make an informed decision that is best for you.
Routine vaccines (MMR, DTP, hepatitis A and B, typhoid) should be up to date.
Pack bug spray with DEET, sunscreen, and any prescription meds you might need—rural pharmacies are limited.
Consult a travel clinic about 6 weeks before departure for personalized advice.
Money and Tipping
Kenya’s currency is the Kenyan shilling (KES), but U.S. dollars are widely accepted, especially for safaris and lodges. Bring crisp, newer bills, as older or torn ones may be rejected.
ATMs are available in major towns and airports, but don’t expect them out near the parks. Most safari operators and mid- to high-end lodges accept credit cards, though it’s wise to carry some cash for tips, market purchases, and emergencies.
Once we had paid for our safari, we honestly didn’t need much cash on the safari. Our only big outlay of cash was for tipping our guide. But make sure you know what is included in your safari before deciding how much cash you want to bring.
Tipping is customary but not mandatory. As a general guide:
Safari guide/driver: $10–$20 per day, per traveler
Lodge staff: $5–$10 per night, often left in a communal tip box
Porters: $1–$2 per bag
Booking Timeline
If you’re hoping to see the wildebeest migration, especially between July and September, you should start planning 6–9 months in advance. While it’s often possible to book closer in, the best camps and budget-friendly safari packages fill quickly during peak season.
For shoulder or low season travel, 3–4 months in advance is usually enough.
If you’re using a platform like SafariBookings.com, you can filter by availability, length, and price range. Once you’ve shortlisted a few options, start reaching out to operators directly—responsiveness and communication matter as much as price.
Some travelers recommend not booking a safari ahead of time and simply pounding the pavement to find something once you get to Nairobi. This may work for travelers who have plenty of time to spare, but I wouldn’t recommend it for those who are flying in, doing a safari and then flying out. Additionally, online booking allows you to look at reviews and get a sense of how previous participants have fared. You might be able to save yourself a bit of money booking a last-minute safari in country, but there is no guarantee. And honestly, you likely won’t save too much.
The Masai Mara gave us drama, dust, and moments that left us breathless—sometimes from awe, sometimes from adrenaline. We didn’t catch a river crossing, but we saw a zebra fall to a lion, a cheetah flash across the plain, and a leopard watch us from the trees. And somewhere in all of it—in the wonder, the heartbreak, the unexpected humor of getting stuck in a creek with crocs upstream—we found ourselves a little changed. Because travel doesn’t just show you the world; it nudges you a bit deeper into it.
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