Nuts and Bolts: Travel Tips for Visiting Alexandria, Egypt
- Rand Blimes
- Jun 4
- 10 min read
Nuts and Bolts posts give you the practical information you need, but without stripping away the humor, mishaps, and little victories that make real travel what it is. These aren’t just guides. They’re how we actually did it—mistakes, triumphs, and all.
This page has some travel tips for visiting Alexandria to aid in planning your own trip. I travel mainly with my wife, and we love to simply wander and eat when we explore a new place. We were in Alexandria in July, 2023. If your trip to Alexandria is significantly longer/shorter/with a different focus, you may have a very different experience.
Setting the Scene
The year was 796 CE, and the market in Alexandria stirred to life with the first golden light of morning. A spice vendor laid out his wares—coriander, cumin, dried figs—breathing in the sharp scent of salt drifting off the sea.
The street beneath his sandals was worn smooth by centuries. And though parts of the city had faded, Alexandria still thrummed with life: camels burdened with silk from the east, sailors shouting in half a dozen tongues, and priests whispering secrets in Greek, Arabic, and Coptic. This was a city where past and present slept in the same bed.
But his eyes, as always, drifted upward.
There it stood: the Lighthouse of Pharos. Towering above the harbor, tiered and glimmering in the sun, its mirrored beacon silent by day, blinding by night. It had watched over sailors and scholars for more than 500 years. Some said it was magic. But the vendor just knew it was Alexandria. His Alexandria.
The man felt lucky. Fortunate to live here. To sell his goods in the shadow of history.
Then came a sound. A low rumble. Distant, but growing.
And then, the ground began to shake.
More than 1,200 years after the earthquake dealt serious damage to the Lighthouse of Pharos, another man walked the same street.
The street beneath his sandals was worn smooth by centuries, and around him rose the chorus of trade: haggling voices, clinking jars, the low grumble of diesel engines.
But his eyes, as always, drifted upward.
Looking to the place where the lighthouse had once stood.
It was no longer there. The earthquake of 796 was only the first of several to batter the ancient tower. Eventually, it came down.
But the man wandered the area where the lighthouse used to stand. He wondered if any of the stones used in the current fort perched on the bay might have once been part of that wonder—opportunistic builders having pilfered the ruins to craft a new monument atop the bones of the old.
The man felt lucky. Fortunate to visit here. To wander in the shadow of history.
And then, the electricity went out.
Alexandria is great—but it feels different from the rest of Egypt. This is not the land of towering pharaonic temples or vast desert tombs. The ancient wonders that once defined the city—the Lighthouse of Pharos and the Great Library—are long gone. (Though Alexandria does boast a stunning modern library you can visit today.) The ruins that remain are younger than elsewhere in Egypt. The city is more Mediterranean, more chaotic in a breezy, coastal kind of way. But make no mistake—Alex is absolutely worth your time. It may not look like the rest of Egypt, but that’s part of what makes it so fun to explore.
And oh yeah—the electricity may go out. A lot.
Travel Tips for Visiting Alexandria: Weather
If you're looking for a break from Egypt's intense desert heat, Alexandria might just be your best bet. Thanks to its position on the Mediterranean coast, Alexandria enjoys milder weather than cities like Cairo or Luxor. In fact, if you’re coming from further south in Egypt, stepping off the train or bus in Alex might feel like walking into a different country altogether—cooler breezes, a bit more humidity, and far fewer people melting into the pavement.
Summer (June to August) can still be hot, but not unbearably so. Highs often hover in the upper 80s°F (around 30°C), with sea breezes helping to take the edge off. That said, summer is also humid, and the city can get a bit crowded with Egyptian vacationers escaping the inland heat.
Winter (December to February) is surprisingly cool. Expect daytime highs in the 60s°F (around 17–20°C), with cooler nights. You might even need a jacket. Rain is rare in most of Egypt, but Alexandria gets a decent share in the winter—nothing torrential, but enough to surprise you if you're not prepared.
Spring and Fall (March–May and September–November) are arguably the best times to visit. The weather is warm but comfortable, the crowds are thinner than in summer, and the sea is still pleasant enough for a stroll or a coastal café stop.
Bottom line: Alexandria is one of the few places in Egypt where the weather might actually be part of the reason you come, not just something you endure. Just check the forecast before you pack—yes, even in Egypt, you might need an umbrella.
Getting to Alexandria
Most travel to Alexandria goes through Cairo. Alexandria is only about 220 kilometers (135 miles) northwest of Cairo, so getting there is fairly straightforward. You've got three main options: train, bus, or hiring a private driver.
The train is a popular choice. Trains between Cairo and Alexandria are frequent, relatively inexpensive, and more comfortable than many people expect. There are several classes of service, but even the standard trains are decently clean and efficient. The ride takes about 2.5 to 3.5 hours depending on the train type, and the main station in Alexandria drops you off right in the heart of the city.
Buses are also an option, with several companies like Go Bus or Blue Bus offering trips from Cairo to Alexandria. These are generally modern, air-conditioned coaches with assigned seats and varying levels of service. They're cheaper than trains in many cases, but you'll need to factor in time (and patience) for getting to and from the bus stations in Cairo, which are notoriously chaotic.
We opted to take an Uber—not a city ride, but a full-on intercity transfer from Cairo to Alexandria. It was more expensive than a bus ticket for one person, but not by much once we factored in that there were three of us. It gave us the convenience of door-to-door service, let us skip the headaches of the train station or bus terminal, and allowed us to leave on our own schedule. For anyone traveling in a small group or just craving some extra comfort, hiring a private car is a great middle-ground between public transit and full-on luxury. We ended up using the same drive for our return to Cairo.
Bottom line: There’s no single “best” way to get to Alexandria—it just depends on your budget, group size, and tolerance for Cairo’s transportation infrastructure. But however you go, Alexandria is close enough to make the trip easy—and more than worth it.
Getting Around Alexandria
Alexandria is a sprawling coastal city, but it’s still pretty easy to get around—once you figure out your rhythm. The good news? Uber works in Alexandria. The not-so-good news? It sometimes takes a while.
We used Uber for nearly all our transport in the city, and it worked well—eventually. Drivers often took longer than expected to arrive, and there were times when our estimated wait crept up to 30 or 40 minutes. But we quickly learned a strategy that made this totally bearable: find a café first (near tourist areas, you are never far away from one). We’d grab a seat, order some fresh juice, and then open the app to request a car. That way, whether the driver showed up in five minutes or forty-five, we weren’t frustrated—we were just enjoying a little break.
There are taxis too, of course, but many don’t use meters and negotiating fares in a foreign language can be a bit much. If you’re up for the adventure, go for it. Otherwise, Uber is more transparent and takes the stress out of pricing.
Much of Alexandria’s shoreline is walkable, especially along the Corniche, where you can stroll by the sea with the breeze in your face and the scent of salt and grilled fish in the air. For anything further afield—like getting to the Catacombs or the new Library of Alexandria—just call that Uber and settle in with a snack while you wait.
Sleeping in Alexandria for the Budget Conscious Traveler
First things first: stay near the Corniche.
When choosing a place to stay in Alexandria, location is everything. You want to be near the Corniche, the long waterfront boulevard that curves around the harbor. This is the beating heart of the city — close to cafes, shops, street life, and major sights. You’ll want to be able to walk out your front door and feel like you’re in Alexandria, not stuck in some distant suburb behind a row of dusty satellite dishes.
We booked an apartment called Downtown Seaview Suites, a simple but cozy two-bedroom place perched just above the Corniche. The price? About $50 per night. That’s for two bedrooms, solid Wi-Fi, a little sitting area, and a view of the harbor. Was it luxurious? No. Was it exactly what we needed? Absolutely.
We booked through Agoda, not Airbnb, but the setup was similar. No front desk, no lobby, no little keycards that stop working after one day. Instead, we were messaged through the platform by the host, who asked for our WhatsApp number and coordinated everything from there. Our driver — a local who grew up in Alexandria — had trouble finding the exact address, but a quick call via WhatsApp got us sorted.
There are some drawbacks to going the apartment route. No concierge to help with taxis or restaurant reservations, and no daily cleaning service. But we don’t need those things. For us, having a little more space, a little kitchen, and a view we could wake up to every morning more than made up for it.
If you prefer hotels, stick close to the Corniche as well. You’ll pay a bit more, but it’s worth it to be within walking distance of the sea breeze and the city’s historic core.
What To Do in Alexandria
Alexandria, a young city by Egyptian standards, isn’t overflowing with ancient ruins like Luxor or Giza — but it doesn’t need to be. This city is its own vibe, a mix of sea breeze and sidewalk chatter, of fried fish and historic echoes.
Start with a walk along the Corniche, Alexandria’s long waterfront boulevard. There’s food everywhere — street snacks, cafes, and ice cream vendors — and the Mediterranean is right across the street, just waiting for you to dip your toes in. (Go ahead. It’s the most historically important sea in the world.) Sunsets here are particularly lovely, and locals come out in droves to walk, snack, and flirt.
At the far end of the Corniche sits the Citadel of Qaitbay, built on the foundations of the ancient Lighthouse of Pharos, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. The lighthouse itself is long gone, but the setting is magic: wind, waves, and families picnicking on the stones. We found it to be a people-watching paradise — and no joke, multiple Egyptians asked to take selfies with us. If you’re in the mood for new friends, this is your spot.
Not far away is the grand Sidi Morsi Abu al-Abbas Mosque, an elegant swirl of domes and minarets, painted in soft cream tones. Non-Muslims can’t enter, but it’s still worth admiring from the outside — especially at sunset, when the light softens and the courtyard fills with locals. Right nearby is the Fish Market Marina, a choose-your-own-fish-adventure kind of restaurant. You pick your fish. You tell them how you want it cooked. They do the rest. It's rustic and delicious.
Next, make your way to the Bibliotheca Alexandrina — Alexandria’s modern answer to its ancient past. For centuries, ships docking at Alexandria were required to surrender any books on board so they could be copied and stored in the city’s fabled Great Library — the greatest knowledge dump in the world before it tragically burned down. Today’s modern version is architecturally striking, with a massive sloped façade inscribed in dozens of scripts and languages. Basic entry is 150 EGP (20 EGP for students) and includes access to rotating exhibits and galleries. Some museums inside require extra fees. If you're a history nerd, book lover, or believer in the power of knowledge, this is a must-visit. If not, you might find it a bit… library-ish.
History lovers will also want to check out the Roman Theater, the Serapeum of Alexandria, and our personal favorite: the Catacombs of Kom el Shoqafa. These catacombs are dark, maze-like, and weirdly fun to explore, with spiral staircases, carved tombs, and the occasional blending of Roman and Egyptian iconography. Wandering underground tombs in a foreign land? That’s travel gold. Try not to hum the theme from Indiana Jones too loud.
Lastly, there’s the underwater stuff — or there used to be. In theory, you could go scuba diving around the ruins of Cleopatra’s Palace or at the site of the ancient lighthouse. There were statues, columns, and relics strewn across the sea floor. We had planned to do these dives — but when we arrived, no operator would take us. It seems that unregulated, artifact-touching tours got shut down by the government in an effort to protect what’s left. Honestly, good for them. Hopefully, the dives reopen someday, with ethical, sustainable practices in place to protect Egypt’s underwater treasures.
Until then, just walk, eat, learn, and look out across the harbor. Alexandria rewards the curious.
Our time in Alexandria was peppered with blackouts both planned and spontaneous, yet somehow, they added to the charm. One of our best evenings was spent at a little street-side table outside a humble restaurant, eating fiteer hot from a wood-burning oven, the only light coming from flickering candles set out when the power failed yet again. We sat there, feeling the sea breeze, sharing bites, and looking out toward the place where the Lighthouse of Pharos once stood. It was the kind of night that lodges itself in your memory precisely because travel often makes you focus on the simple things in life.
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