Nuts and Bolts: Travel Tips for Visiting Nusa Penida (Spoiler: Don’t!)
- Rand Blimes
- May 28
- 8 min read
Nuts and Bolts posts give you the practical information you need, but without stripping away the humor, mishaps, and little victories that make real travel what it is. These aren’t just guides. They’re how we actually did it—mistakes, triumphs, and all.
This page has some travel tips for visiting Nusa Penida to aid in planning your own trip. I travel mainly with my wife, and we love to simply wander and eat when we explore a new place. We were in Nusa Penida in August, 2022. If your trip to Nusa Penida is significantly longer/shorter/with a different focus, you may have a very different experience.
A Traffic Jam in the Sky
Nusa Penida, a jagged little island about 30–45 minutes by speedboat from eastern Bali, is home to some of the most visually jaw-dropping beaches on Earth. We’re talking absurdly perfect: jewel-like slivers of sugar-white sand, wedged between towering cliffs and a sea so turquoise it looks like someone adjusted the saturation slider a little too far to the right.
It is absolutely beautiful.
And I hate it.
Now, listen—I live in Hawaii. I know a thing or two about beaches. So when I say that Nusa Penida has some of the most beautiful beaches on the planet, I mean it. I’m not being sarcastic.
Yet somehow, despite all that stunning natural beauty, Nusa Penida manages to be one of the most miserable places I visited in Indonesia.
Here’s how it goes: you arrive at a cliffside viewpoint, gazing down at the beach far below like some ancient mariner discovering paradise. The only way down? A narrow goat-path carved into the sheer cliff face, switchbacking its way toward the sea like a polite death wish.
This should be an epic hike. A glorious, thigh-burning adventure. But instead, it’s Disneyland on a heatwave. The entire trail is a crawling, sweaty queue of people going down… and another queue of people coming up. You move inches at a time. You bake in the sun. You tell yourself it’s worth it.
Because you are a civilized human. You queue. You wait. You do not shove.
Unfortunately, not everyone shares this commitment to social order. Some travelers—let’s call them "line-skirting sociopaths"—see a winding cliff path lined with patiently waiting humans and think, “You know what this needs? Me, aggressively side-shuffling past like I’m chasing a dropped phone at a music festival.”
And you try, dear reader, you try not to hope they slip.
Eventually, you reach the beach. And it is stunning. It’s also packed. And somewhere in the back of your mind, a tiny voice is already whispering: “You know you have to hike back up, right? Past the same pushy people. In the blazing sun. With the added benefit of gravity now working against you.”
That’s Nusa Penida in a nutshell: spectacular, infuriating, and a masterclass in how paradise can be thoroughly trampled by crowds and a few too many people who believe they are above waiting in line like a commoner.
Travel Tips for Visiting Nusa Penida: Weather
Nusa Penida shares Bali’s tropical climate, which means two seasons: wet and dry. The dry season (roughly April to October) is the best time to visit, especially if you're hoping to avoid slippery cliff paths and surprise monsoons mid-hike. The wet season (November to March) can bring heavy rains and muddy trails—less than ideal when your only route involves hugging a cliff face in flip-flops. If you're set on visiting, aim for May through September, when the skies are (mostly) clear, the seas are calmer, and your chances of sliding down a jungle staircase are marginally reduced.
Getting to Nusa Penida
Nusa Penida is just 30–45 minutes by speedboat from Bali, but getting there involves a bit more than just hopping on a boat and yelling “Adventure!” at the horizon.
We booked our round-trip tickets from Sanur to Nusa Penida via Bookaway.com, which worked smoothly and cost about $24 per person. We decided to spend the night in Sanur beforehand so we could catch an early 8:30 AM departure—highly recommended if you want to beat the crowds (or at least pretend you’re beating the crowds—spoiler alert: there is no way to beat the crowds on Nusa Penida).
Most fast boats leave from the same dock in Sanur, and dozens of different operators run similar-looking services. When you book online, you’ll get a location pin for the dock. Once you arrive, just find your specific boat company’s check-in counter, flash them your booking, and wait to be called.
Important tip: when they call your boat, do not dawdle. We did. We moved slowly. We got the dreaded outside seats. And while that sounds mildly pleasant, it actually means zero shade, full sun, and a solid 40-minute session of slow roasting on open water. Learn from our mistake.
Coming back to Bali is the same process in reverse: check in at the dock in Nusa Penida with your boat operator, line up, and this time—hustle like your SPF 50 depends on it. Because it does.
Getting Around Nusa Penida
When you step off the boat at Nusa Penida’s harbor, you may feel like you’ve just arrived in paradise. But paradise doesn’t come with rideshare apps—or many drivers, for that matter.
Start with this tip: pre-book transportation from the dock to your hotel. Seriously. Drivers on the island are in short supply, and if you just show up and hope for the best, you’ll pay handsomely for the privilege. Many hotels can arrange a pickup in advance, or you can book a transfer through platforms like Get Your Guide.
Getting around Nusa Penida once you’re settled in isn’t any easier. The island has zero public transportation, and the sights are spread out across a surprisingly large and rugged landscape. That leaves you with two main options:
1. Hire a Car and Driver
This is the easiest and safest option. When we visited, the going rate for a full-day car and driver (about 8 hours) was around $60 USD through apps like Get Your Guide. Drivers know the roads and the confusing patchwork of attractions, and you get to sit in air-conditioned comfort while someone else navigates the chaos.
2. Rent a Scooter
Scooters are popular and undeniably convenient. But they’re also risky. Nusa Penida’s roads are often narrow, potholed, steep, and winding. Google Maps doesn’t always warn you when a “road” is actually a washed-out donkey trail. Every year, travelers underestimate the conditions here and end up in the hospital—or worse. Only rent a scooter if you’re already experienced, have valid insurance, and are soberly realistic about your limits.
Whatever your mode of transport, choose a hotel close to the part of the island you actually want to explore. Constantly crisscrossing the island adds time, stress, and unnecessary wear and tear to your tropical getaway.
Sleeping in Nusa Penida for the Budget Conscious Traveler
While Bali is bursting with beautiful hotels at unbeatable prices, Nusa Penida plays a little harder to get. Accommodation here isn’t quite the same jaw-dropping value—but it’s still decent, with options for most budgets and travel styles.
We stayed at Crystal Bay Beach Bungalows, which checked a lot of the right boxes. Crystal Bay itself is a solid home base: there’s good snorkeling, beachside restaurants, and a steady stream of tour operators offering everything from manta ray dives to island-hopping boat tours. It’s not fancy, but the vibe is relaxed, and having the ocean just a short walk away was exactly the kind of simplicity we wanted.
Here’s the real key: stay near the thing you came to see.
Nusa Penida’s roads are rough, distances deceptive, and transport options limited. If your plan is to explore the cliffs and coves of the western side, find a hotel nearby. If you're drawn to the snorkeling and diving scene, Crystal Bay or Toyapakeh might be better. Being within walking distance of what you want to do will make your visit exponentially more enjoyable.
In short, the right location isn’t just convenient—it’s strategic. On Nusa Penida, that matters more than the thread count of your sheets.
What To Do in Nusa Penida
Let’s be honest—you’re not coming to Nusa Penida for the food scene, or night life. You’re coming for the views. The photos. The cliffs that look like dinosaurs. The promise of manta rays. So let’s break down the hits—and the headaches—of the island’s most popular attractions.
Angel’s Billabong and Broken Beach
This duo is a favorite stop, and for good reason. Angel’s Billabong is a dramatic natural infinity pool carved into the cliffside. But if the surf is up—and it usually is—stay out of the water. When we visited, one rogue wave could’ve ended anyone’s travel career (permanently). It’s beautiful. It’s powerful. It’s not a swimming hole.
Just next door is Broken Beach, a collapsed sea cave that now forms a circular cove surrounded by cliffs. You can’t hike down, but it’s gorgeous from above—especially if you have a drone to capture the full view.
Kelingking Beach
This is the cliff that launched a thousand Instagram posts. Shaped like a T-Rex head, the Kelingking overlook is jaw-dropping. We skipped the path down, and honestly? We didn’t feel like we missed out. The trail is sketchy, the crowds are thick, and the view is best from above anyway. If you’re up for more walking, there are plenty of trails south from the overlook for quieter hiking and coastal views.
Diamond Beach
The ultimate paradox: possibly the most beautiful beach in the world, and also the most miserable to visit. The descent is long and slow, because the narrow cliff path becomes a never-ending line of sweaty, frustrated people just trying to move. And yet—it’s stunning. A perfect crescent of sand, clear water, shark sightings even. But no peace. If serenity is what you seek, admire from afar and spare yourself the descent (and ascent). If you do struggle down to the beach, beware. The waves and rip tides can easily pound a swimmer into the sand and sweep them out to sea. Don’t go in the water unless you have enough experience to know that you shouldn’t go in the water.
Snorkeling and Manta Tours
Boat tours are a huge draw here. We took one out to a secluded reef and were rewarded with vivid coral, great visibility, and... the entire population of Instagram snorkelers floating above it with us. It’s still worth it, just temper your expectations.
Be aware: we encountered stinging micro-creatures in the water—tiny but surprisingly irritating. If you or your travel companions have sensitive skin, consider a full-coverage rash guard or lightweight wetsuit.
Part of our tour also included “swimming with mantas” in Manta Bay. However, by the time we got there, it was afternoon, and the guide told us that there wouldn’t be any mantas at that time of day. It wasn’t a good sign that we were the only swimmers in the bay. If you are alone in Nusa Penida it must be because there is nothing to see. But we grabbed mask and snorkel and jumped in anyway. And before too long, we were joined by a manta. We swam above it for 20 minutes (until we were too exhausted from trying to keep up with it to keep going). It was a rare moment of magic—the kind that reminds you why you bother with places like Nusa Penida in the first place.
In the end, Nusa Penida is one of the most beautiful places I never want to see again. The beaches are exquisite, the views unforgettable, and the crowds utterly soul-crushing. It’s not just busy—it’s chaotic, overrun, and often unpleasant. If you're the kind of traveler who finds joy in serenity, in quiet moments and unspoiled nature, you won’t find it here. You’ll find lines. And noise. And a never-ending stream of people who treat the island like a backdrop for their social media highlight reel. If that’s your thing, have at it. But for the rest of us? There are other islands. Better ones. Ones where the beauty still feels like a gift, not something you have to wrestle away from a thousand elbows. Because travel, when it’s at its best, should fill you up—not wear you down.
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