Nuts and Bolts: Travel Tips for Visiting Luxor, Egypt
- Rand Blimes
- Jun 1
- 10 min read
Nuts and Bolts posts give you the practical information you need, but without stripping away the humor, mishaps, and little victories that make real travel what it is. These aren’t just guides. They’re how we actually did it—mistakes, triumphs, and all.
This page has some travel tips for visiting Luxor to aid in planning your own trip. I travel mainly with my wife, and we love to simply wander and eat when we explore a new place, but, of course, we went to Luxor mainly to see the ancient sites. We were in Luxor in July 2023. If your trip to Luxor is significantly longer/shorter/with a different focus, you may have a very different experience.
Part 1 of 2
Luxor is simply too overwhelmingly amazing. So, let me give you some advice: don’t go to Luxor. Seriously. Just skip it.
Because here’s what’s going to happen if you do: you’ll walk into your first ancient temple and your brain will short-circuit. You’ll see columns the size of redwoods, walls covered in vibrant carvings that are thousands of years old, and a river that basically invented civilization. You’ll start muttering things like, “Wait, this was built how long ago?” and “How is this not one of the Seven Wonders?” and “Is this real life?”
And then, when you go anywhere else in the world—Machu Picchu, Athens, Angkor, wherever—you’ll nod politely and say, “Yeah, it’s nice. But it’s no Luxor.”
It ruins you. Luxor absolutely ruins you for all future ruins.
Also, you’ll be too hot, too dusty, too overwhelmed, and somehow still having the best time of your life. It’s disorienting. It's magical. It’s a trap.
What? You still want to visit Luxor?
Sigh
Fine. Here are some tips, I guess.
Travel Tips for Visiting Luxor: Weather
Luxor doesn’t have seasons so much as it has different levels of furnace. If you’re looking for a place with crisp autumn leaves or refreshing spring showers, this is not that place. What Luxor does have is sun. Lots of sun. Aggressive, unrelenting, “I own your soul now” kind of sun.
Summer (May–September) is not for amateurs. Daytime highs regularly climb above 40°C (104°F) and can spike well beyond that. July and August are especially brutal—unless your dream travel scenario involves sightseeing inside a toaster. On the bright side (pun intended), crowds are thin and prices drop, mostly because only the sun-immune and the slightly unhinged show up during this time. We were there in July. We survived. We sweated through our eyebrows. But we survived. The key is to get up early and see what you can before lunch. After lunch, you need to retire to the hotel, or the pool, and wait out the hottest time of day. Go back out in the evening.
Winter (November–February) is peak season for a reason. Highs hover in the mid-20s°C (70s°F), the sun is still shining, but you can walk more than ten steps without feeling like your internal organs are slow-roasting. That said, winter mornings and evenings can get surprisingly cool, so pack a light jacket.
Spring (March–April) and Autumn (October) are shoulder seasons—warmer than winter, but not yet full apocalypse. These are great times to visit if you want decent weather and slightly fewer crowds elbowing you at Karnak Temple.
No matter when you go, wear sunscreen like your life depends on it (because it kind of does), drink more water than seems reasonable, and schedule outdoor activities for early morning or late afternoon. Luxor rewards the heat-prepared. The unprepared? It flambés them.
Getting to Luxor
Luxor might feel like the center of the universe once you’re standing among its temples—but getting there takes a bit of planning. Luckily, whether you’re coming from Cairo, Aswan, or the Red Sea, you’ve got options. Some are scenic, some are practical, and some are just plain hot.
From Cairo
The classic way to reach Luxor is by train—either a daytime express or the more famous overnight sleeper. The ride takes about 9 to 10 hours, depending on the train and how generous it’s feeling with delays. If you take the daytime option (as we did), don’t expect dramatic views of the Nile Valley. Despite the romantic idea of winding through lush riverbanks, the reality is mostly dry fields, concrete villages, and long stretches of not-much. Still, if you enjoy train travel for its own sake, it’s a solid experience.
The overnight sleeper (run by Watania) is pricier, but more comfortable—especially if you’d rather arrive rested than roasted. Meals are included, the cabins are basic but decent, and it saves you the cost of a hotel for the night.
In theory, you can book train tickets online through the Egyptian National Railways website. In practice? Let’s just say the system never worked for us. I ended up buying our tickets in person at the station when we arrived in Luxor, which worked just fine—though it’s best to book a day or two in advance during busy seasons.
From Hurghada
If you’re coming from the Red Sea coast, buses from Hurghada are the most direct route. The ride takes about 4 to 5 hours through the Eastern Desert—rocky, stark, and strangely beautiful in a “we may be on Mars” kind of way. It’s not luxurious, but it gets the job done. Just bring snacks and don’t expect roadside amenities. We booked through Go Bus.
There are no trains or flights between Hurghada and Luxor, so the bus is really your only option unless you're arranging a pricey private transfer.
From Aswan
Coming up from Aswan gives you three options: train, road, or river.
Train: This is the most common and efficient way. Trains run regularly and take around 3 to 4 hours. It’s a relaxed ride and a great way to travel between two of Egypt’s most historic cities. If you can get it to work, in theory you can purchase tickets online.
By road: Similar timing, but less comfortable unless you’ve got a private car.
By river: For those in no rush, a multi-day Nile cruise from Aswan to Luxor is one of Egypt’s classic experiences. You’ll drift past temples, farmland, and scenes that feel frozen in time. It's not fast—but that’s the point.
However you get there, Luxor is the reward—and it’s worth every minute of the journey. Whether you roll in by train, rumble in by bus, or sail in like an ancient royal, just know this: the adventure starts long before you see your first temple.
Getting Around Luxor
Once you’ve made it to Luxor, the good news is—you’re not stuck in traffic. At least, not most of the time. Luxor is surprisingly walkable, especially on the East Bank, where many of the city’s main sights, shops, and restaurants are clustered. The Corniche (the riverside promenade) makes for a scenic stroll, and as long as you can handle the heat, your feet can take you pretty far.
That said, eventually you’ll want to go beyond walking distance. Here’s how to do it.
Uber (or rather, Uber-ish)
Technically, Uber operates in Luxor. In reality, availability can be hit or miss. If you open the app and no cars are nearby, don’t panic—just try again later or refresh a few times. When it does work, it’s affordable, straightforward, and the best way to avoid haggling. Just keep in mind that license plates are in Arabic, so brush up on your Arabic numerals if you want to find your car without second-guessing every vehicle that pulls up.
Taxis
Taxis are everywhere, and they will find you whether you need them or not. If you flag one down or hop in at a stand, always negotiate the fare before the ride—most don’t use meters. A little friendly firmness goes a long way. Or a little cantankerous firmness, depending on the day.
Horse Carriages
Want a ride in a calèche (horse-drawn carriage)? Great news: the drivers will not stop offering. Ever. In fact, the moment you start walking, you’ll be offered at least three rides before you reach the next intersection. While they can be a fun and atmospheric way to get around, especially at night along the Corniche, be prepared for persistent sales pitches—even if you’re clearly not in the market.
If you do want to take a carriage, it’s easy. Just wave one down—there are always plenty trotting by—and again, agree on the fare before you climb in. And don’t be surprised if your driver tries to throw in a “quick stop” at a “special shop” along the way. Be clear about your destination, and don’t be afraid to walk away if they don’t respect that.
Ferries and Boats
To get across the river to the West Bank, you can take a local ferry (very cheap, very local) or hire a private motorboat for a few Egyptian pounds more. It’s faster than driving all the way around, and riding across the Nile in a little boat is half the fun.
Bottom line?
Luxor is a city best explored with a good pair of walking shoes and a sense of humor. Use Uber when it works, ferries when you’re feeling scenic, and carriages when you’re feeling dramatic. And no matter what, be ready to say “la shukran” (no thank you) at least fifty times a day. You'll be fine. Probably.
Sleeping in Luxor for the Budget Conscious Traveler
Before you start comparing hotel star ratings or pool photos, the first question to answer is this: East Bank or West Bank? It’s a deceptively simple choice, but it will shape your entire experience of Luxor.
East Bank: Convenience Wins
This is the more built-up side of the Nile and where most of Luxor’s restaurants, shops, and major sights are located—including Luxor Temple, the Karnak Temple complex, and the train station. If you want to take evening strolls along the Corniche, grab dinner without a long taxi ride, or just be close to the action, this is the side to stay on.
We stayed at the Aracan Eatabe Luxor Hotel, and its location was ideal—just a short walk to Luxor Temple and the Corniche. Our room had a balcony with a view of the Nile, which made for some excellent sunrise watching. It wasn’t fancy, but it was solid, reliable, and well-placed for exploring the city without needing a plan—or a ride.
West Bank: Peace, Views, and Better Deals
The West Bank is more rural, quieter, and often cheaper for boutique guesthouses and small hotels. You’ll be closer to the Valley of the Kings, Hatshepsut’s Temple, and Medinet Habu, but farther from dinner options and night-time activity. If you're the type of traveler who likes early mornings, quiet evenings, and rustic charm, the West Bank can be a great fit.
One thing to consider: some West Bank hotels operate their own private ferries to the East Bank. If you find one with reliable service and a decent schedule, this can be the perfect compromise—quieter lodging with easy access to the livelier side of the Nile.
One More Thing: The Pool Factor
Luxor gets hot. Relentlessly hot. Especially in summer, when the sun feels like it’s trying to smite you for disrespecting the pharaohs. If you're not the kind of traveler who can happily hide in your room for hours during the midafternoon heat, do yourself a favor and book a hotel with a pool. You’ll need a place to cool off and recharge between tombs and temples.
In short: if your priority is convenience, food, and walkability, stick to the East Bank. If you're chasing quiet charm, go West—but check the ferry situation first. Either way, get a pool. Luxor is amazing, but it’s even better when you’re not melting.
What to eat in Luxor
Luxor isn’t known as a foodie destination in the traditional sense—but that doesn’t mean you’ll go hungry. In fact, some of the best meals we had were in no-name places we probably couldn’t find again if we tried. That’s half the fun.
Start with Breakfast—Really Early
Here’s a hot tip (literally): it gets very hot in Luxor, so you'll want to start your sightseeing early. And that means starting your day with a proper Egyptian breakfast—ideally one served to you at a plastic table under a dusty awning by someone who knows exactly how to make ful (mashed fava beans), falafel, and piping hot baladi bread.
If you hire a driver to take you around to the West Bank tombs and temples, there’s a good chance they’ll take you to one of their favorite local breakfast joints. Trust the process. These spots are often humble, unmarked, and absolutely fantastic—and the bill might total less than your bottled water.
For Lunch or Dinner: A Few Solid Picks
When it comes to sit-down meals in the city, here are a few places we enjoyed:
Sofra – Probably Luxor’s most recommended restaurant, and for good reason. Traditional décor, great ambiance, and a menu full of Egyptian classics. It’s a great place to try molokhia, kofta, or roasted pigeon (if you're feeling brave). We ate here more than once during our five days in Luxor.
Ali Baba Café – Casual and friendly, this is a good option for Middle Eastern staples in a laid-back setting. Bonus points for good prices and rooftop seating.
Aisha Restaurant – A newer addition with a modern twist on traditional dishes. Clean, well-run, and a nice choice if you're looking for something a little more polished without being pretentious.
And Yes… McDonald's
Right across from Luxor Temple, you’ll find one of the most surreal McDonald's locations on the planet (although not the most surreal chain restaurant in Egypt . . . that is the Pizza Hut across from the Pyramids of Giza). We’re not big fast food people when we travel, but… milkshakes with a temple view? Yeah. We went. More than once. No regrets.
A Few Final Tips:
Don’t expect fast service. Luxor runs on its own time.
Always carry small bills and cash—credit cards are not widely accepted.
If a menu isn’t available, just ask what’s fresh or being cooked today. You’ll probably end up with something better than what you would have ordered anyway.
In the end, eating in Luxor is less about fine dining and more about discovering flavors in unexpected places. Come hungry, say yes to what your driver suggests, and don’t underestimate the power of a McShake in the shadow of a 3,000-year-old temple.
What To Do in Luxor
There is too much! This will get its own post.
Luxor is the kind of place that requires a bit of planning—but rewards every ounce of effort with something unforgettable. From finding the right hotel to dodging a dozen carriage drivers before breakfast, the logistics here are part of the experience. And once you’ve figured out where to stay, how to get around, and where to grab a good falafel—or milkshake—you’re ready for the real magic: the temples, tombs, and timeless wonders that make Luxor unlike anywhere else on Earth.
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