Nuts and Bolts: What To Do in Luxor, Egypt
- Rand Blimes
- Jun 1
- 19 min read
Nuts and Bolts posts give you the practical information you need, but without stripping away the humor, mishaps, and little victories that make real travel what it is. These aren’t just guides. They’re how we actually did it—mistakes, triumphs, and all.
This page has some travel tips for visiting Luxor to aid in planning your own trip. I travel mainly with my wife, and we love to simply wander and eat when we explore a new place, but, of course, we went to Luxor mainly to see the ancient sites. We were in Luxor in July 2023. If your trip to Luxor is significantly longer/shorter/with a different focus, you may have a very different experience.
Part 2 of 2: What To Do in Luxor
So you’ve figured out the logistics—where to stay, how to get around, how to survive the heat, and maybe even how to outmaneuver a particularly persistent carriage driver. Good. Because now it’s time for the reason you came.
Luxor isn’t just a city with temples. Luxor is the temple. It’s a city-sized museum where the ancient world isn’t behind glass—it’s under your feet, above your head, and everywhere in between. The monuments here aren’t just ruins. They’re declarations—of power, of faith, of art, and of legacy. And they’re some of the most breathtaking sites you’ll ever see.
In this post, I’ll walk you through the tombs, temples, and everything in between—the must-sees, the hidden gems, and the things that might just leave you speechless. Or sunburned. Probably both.
What To Do in Luxor
A note on entry fees. We visited Luxor in 2023. As I update entry fees in 2025, most fees have more than doubled. Make sure to check prices before you go if you are trying to keep to a budget.
East and West, Life and Death
For the ancient Egyptians, the cycle of the sun was more than just a measure of time—it was the story of existence itself. The rising sun symbolized birth and life, while its setting marked death and the journey into the afterlife. That belief still shapes the geography of their sacred spaces. Whether in Cairo or Luxor, the east bank of the Nile—the side where the sun rises—is where you’ll find the great temples of life: places of worship, offerings, and celebration. The west bank, where the sun sets, is home to the tombs of the dead: elaborate preparations for the afterlife carved into the cliffs and buried beneath the sand. Sightseeing in Luxor isn’t just a matter of direction—it’s a journey between worlds.
East Bank Sights
Luxor Temple
Opening Hours: Daily, 6:00 AM – 10:00 PM
Entrance Fee: 500 EGP (adult), 250 EGP (student)
Cheesy Light Show 960 EGP
Right in the heart of the modern city, Luxor Temple feels almost out of place—until you remember that this was the heart of ancient Thebes. Built primarily by Amenhotep III and expanded by Ramesses II, the temple was dedicated not to a single god, but to the divine nature of kingship itself. This was where rulers were spiritually reborn, reaffirming their right to rule in the eyes of both gods and people.
Highlights include the grand colonnade, the massive seated statues of Ramesses II at the entrance, and exquisitely preserved carvings that stretch across vast sandstone walls. Unlike most temple complexes in Egypt, Luxor Temple includes a functioning mosque, Abu Haggag Mosque, built right into its upper structure during the medieval Islamic period—an evocative layering of sacred history that’s still alive today.
One of the best things about Luxor Temple is that it stays open after dark, which is rare for ancient sites in Egypt. We visited in the late afternoon, arriving about an hour and a half before sunset. That gave us time to explore the temple in daylight, watching golden light spill through columns and across carved stone. Then, as the sun set behind the West Bank hills, we lingered. The crowds thinned, the heat lifted, and soft artificial lighting gave the temple a different kind of magic. Wandering the glowing courtyards under a darkening sky—just steps from the city’s bustle—was one of the most atmospheric experiences we had in Egypt.
A quick note about guides: I watched as a guide in Luxor Temple explained to a group of tourists that a particular statue was of King Tut. I had studied hieroglyphs before coming to Egypt and learned to read the (various forms of the) pharaohs’ names. The statue was not Tutankhamen. It was one of the Ramesses (I forget which one—there are so many!). There are some great guides out there. And there are some grifters who speak nonsense with confidence.
Temple of Karnak
Opening Hours: Daily, 6:00 AM – 5:30 PM
Entrance Fee: 600 EGP (adult), 300 EGP (student)
Cheesy Light Show 960 EGP
If Luxor Temple feels grand, Karnak feels like it was built by giants. Covering more than 200 acres, the Temple of Karnak is the largest religious complex ever constructed in ancient Egypt—and one of the largest in the world. It was built, expanded, and rebuilt over the course of more than 1,500 years, with contributions from at least 30 different pharaohs. This wasn't just a temple; it was a sacred city.
The complex is dedicated primarily to Amun-Ra, the king of the gods, but includes chapels, pylons, and sanctuaries honoring a whole pantheon. The absolute must-see is the Great Hypostyle Hall, a forest of 134 massive sandstone columns, each towering up to 70 feet high. Carved with scenes of pharaohs making offerings to the gods and inscribed with hieroglyphs, the hall feels more like a sacred canyon than a building.
Other highlights include the Sacred Lake, used for ritual purification, and the Obelisks of Hatshepsut and Thutmose I, testaments to royal ambition carved in stone. If you're especially lucky (or persistent), you might find your way to the Precinct of Mut or the Temple of Khonsu, tucked away in quieter corners of the complex.
Because Karnak is so enormous—and because the midday sun shows no mercy—go as early as possible. The temple opens at 6:00 AM, and that’s when you want to be walking through the first pylon. Early morning not only helps you beat the heat, but also gives you the rare chance to experience parts of the temple in near solitude, before the tour buses roll in and the stone starts to radiate like a stovetop.
Bring water, wear good shoes, and give yourself plenty of time. Karnak isn’t a quick stop—it’s an epic.
El-Souk (Luxor’s Main Market)
If you’re feeling a little templed out—and after a few days in Luxor, that’s a very real thing—El-Souk is the perfect change of pace. Located just a short walk from Luxor Temple, this long, winding market offers a different kind of sensory overload: bright colors, strong scents, endless banter, and the occasional overly persistent shopkeeper.
Much of the souk is unapologetically touristy. You’ll find alabaster figurines (some real, some less so), papyrus scrolls (ditto), colorful scarves, spices, lanterns, and the usual assortment of “I survived the Valley of the Kings” T-shirts. But if you’re willing to wander a little deeper into the alleys, you’ll stumble upon stalls that cater more to locals—offering produce, housewares, and everyday essentials that provide a glimpse into daily life in Luxor.
Haggling is expected and often part of the fun, as long as you keep it good-humored. If someone invites you in for tea, they probably also want you to buy a carpet—but they’re likely also genuinely friendly. Just remember that “no, thank you” may require a few repetitions to stick.
It’s not a site of ancient splendor, but it is a great place to decompress, pick up a few souvenirs, or just people-watch for a while. And after a morning spent in the hush of holy places, the lively chaos of the souk can be surprisingly refreshing.
Museums on the East Bank: Cool Spaces for Hot Days
After a few hours of wandering under the blazing Egyptian sun, you might find yourself dreaming of two things: shade and context. Luckily, Luxor’s East Bank has a couple of small but excellent museums that offer both—along with the sweet, sweet relief of air conditioning.
Luxor Museum
Opening Hours: 9:00 AM – 2:00 PM & 5:00 PM – 10:00 PM
Entrance Fee: 400 EGP (adult), 200 EGP (student)
Air Conditioning: Yes
The Luxor Museum is a masterclass in curation. It’s not huge, but what it lacks in size, it makes up for in quality. Everything here feels carefully chosen and beautifully displayed—from New Kingdom statuary to artifacts recovered from the tombs of Thebes, including some spectacular pieces discovered in Tutankhamun’s tomb. The museum also features two royal mummies (Ahmose I and Ramesses I) and a memorable display of reliefs from Akhenaten’s Aten temple, dismantled and repurposed as filler blocks in later constructions.
Because it’s air-conditioned and well-lit, it’s a perfect place to spend a hot afternoon digesting what you’ve seen at Karnak and Luxor Temple. It also tends to be uncrowded, making it feel like a cool, quiet secret in a city of grand spectacles.
Mummification Museum
Opening Hours: 9:00 AM – 2:00 PM & 5:00 PM – 7:00 PM
Entrance Fee: 220 EGP (adult), 110 EGP (student)
Air Conditioning: Yes
This small and oddly fascinating museum is located right along the Corniche, not far from Luxor Temple. It focuses entirely on the process of mummification, not just for humans, but for animals too. You’ll find embalming tools, jars that once held organs, and even a mummified fish (yes, really). While it won’t take long to walk through—maybe 20 to 30 minutes—it gives you a deeper appreciation for the ritual and technical skill that went into preserving the dead for the afterlife.
If you’ve already seen a few mummies (or are about to), this place helps connect the dots and demystify one of the most iconic aspects of ancient Egyptian culture. And did I mention the air conditioning?
Both museums are ideal for the midafternoon lull, when the sun is angry and your energy is low. They’re not just educational—they’re strategic. Think of them as cultural siestas, where you get to cool down and level up your understanding of everything you’ve been seeing in the temples and tombs.
West Bank Sights
Valley of the Kings
Opening Hours: Daily, 6:00 AM – 5:00 PM
General Entrance Fee: 750 EGP (adult), 375 EGP (student) – includes entrance to any 3 of the standard tombs
Additional Tickets: • Tutankhamun: 700 EGP • Ramses V & VI: 220 EGP • Seti I: 2000 EGP
Visiting the Valley of the Kings is the closest thing you’ll get to time travel in Egypt. Tucked into the sun-blasted cliffs of the West Bank, this necropolis was the final resting place of pharaohs and elites from Egypt’s New Kingdom period—roughly 500 years of royal ambition and afterlife prep carved directly into the rock.
Here’s how it works: your general admission ticket lets you visit three tombs—but not all of them. The site has over 60 tombs, but usually only about 8 to 10 are open to the public at any given time, and of those, just a subset are included in the general ticket. Each tomb is different in size, preservation, and decorative detail, so it’s smart to research ahead of time or ask at the ticket office for advice on what’s currently open and worth seeing.
If you're willing to pay extra, there are three special-access tombs to consider:
Tutankhamun’s Tomb (700 EGP): It’s small and somewhat underwhelming—except for the fact that King Tut himself is still in there, resting quietly in a climate-controlled glass case. It’s the only tomb in the valley where you can actually see a royal mummy. Just be aware: photography is officially prohibited, but guards will often suggest you take a photo anyway, and then casually request a “tip” for the privilege.
Ramses V & VI (220 EGP): This is a two-for-one tomb (literally—two kings, one tomb) and one of the most visually stunning in the valley. Its richly colored ceilings and deep astronomical themes make it a favorite among many visitors. Highly recommended.
Seti I (2000 EGP): This is considered by many to be the most elaborate tomb in the entire valley—its length, detail, and preservation are jaw-dropping. But it’s also the most expensive by far, and unless you’re a serious Egyptology enthusiast, it may not be worth the splurge. (It was actually closed when we visited—but we didn’t feel like we missed out.)
Note the tombs close from time to time. Nothing is guaranteed in the Valley of the Kings.
We arrived just as the valley opened at 6:00 AM, and it made a huge difference. The heat was manageable, and for a while, we had entire tombs completely to ourselves. If you can manage the early start, go right at opening time.
The Valley of the Kings isn’t just a tourist stop—it’s a lesson in how the ancient Egyptians understood life, death, and eternity. Give it time, bring water, and come ready to stare at walls longer than you ever thought possible. It’s worth it.
Valley of the Queens
Opening Hours: Daily, 6:00 AM – 5:00 PM
General Entrance Fee: 220 EGP (adult), 50 EGP (student) – includes entrance to 3 tombs
Additional Ticket for Tomb of Nefertari: 2500 EGP (NOTE: as of June 2025, the Tomb of Nefertari is Closed--check on status before visiting)
If the Valley of the Kings is a monumental display of pharaonic power, the Valley of the Queens is a quieter—though not always more modest—place of remembrance. Tucked into a nearby desert valley, this was the burial site for royal wives, daughters, and sons, with tombs dating mainly to the New Kingdom period.
The process here is similar to the Valley of the Kings: your standard ticket gets you into three tombs, which are usually:
· Amunherkhepshef (son of Ramesses III)
· Titi (uncertain identity, possibly a queen of the 20th Dynasty)
· Khaemwaset (a prince, not to be confused with the famous son of Ramesses II)
Unfortunately, none of these is particularly compelling if you’ve already seen several major tombs. The art is more faded, the tombs smaller, and the impact far less dramatic.
The main reason people come here is the Tomb of Nefertari, wife of Ramesses II, often described as the most beautiful tomb in all of Egypt. And yes—it’s stunning. The walls are covered in radiant, vividly painted scenes of Nefertari being guided by the gods, and the ceiling is a galaxy of golden stars. But the cost? 2500 EGP per person. That’s more than some international flights!
Almost every review of the Valley of Queens will tell you the tomb is worth it.
Personally, I think this is a classic case of cognitive dissonance tourism—people pay the high fee, and then have to feel like it was worth it. But if you’ve already seen the Tomb of Ramses V & VI in the Valley of the Kings (just 100 EGP extra), you’ve seen wall art and preservation at a comparable level—and you’ve saved enough money to pay for a couple of nice dinners.
Bottom line? Unless you’re on a mission to see every significant tomb in Egypt or have a deep personal attachment to Nefertari, I would say can probably skip the Valley of the Queens—and not miss much.
Tombs of the Nobles & Deir el-Medina
Opening Hours: Daily, 6:00 AM – 5:00 PM
Entrance Fees:
• Tombs of the Nobles: 200–300 EGP (varies by group)
• Deir el-Medina: 220 EGP (adult), 110 EGP (student)
If you’ve already explored the Valleys of the Kings and Queens but still haven’t had your fill of tombs, the Tombs of the Nobles and Deir el-Medina make for worthy side trips—especially since they’re located in the same general area on the West Bank.
Tombs of the Nobles
This sprawling site includes the rock-cut tombs of high officials, priests, and artisans, many of which are smaller and simpler than the royal tombs—but often surprisingly personal and vivid. Instead of gods and pharaohs, you’ll find scenes of daily life: farming, fishing, banquets, and even family squabbles. The artistic quality varies, but several tombs—like those of Rekhmire, Sennofer, or Ramose—are genuinely impressive and far less crowded than the headline sites.
It’s not a must-see for every traveler, but if you’re interested in how non-royals viewed the afterlife, this is where it gets interesting.
Deir el-Medina (Valley of the Artisans)
Just up the road, Deir el-Medina was the village of the skilled workers who built the royal tombs. These weren’t average laborers—they were elite artisans, and they gave themselves some beautifully decorated resting places. The tombs here are small but exceptionally well-preserved, with bold colors and charming touches that feel more human than divine.
You’ll also find the remains of the workers' village, a small Ptolemaic temple, and some shady spots to rest. It's a good place to spend an hour or two, especially if you want a break from pharaohs and are curious about the people who carved their legacies into stone.
Neither site is essential, but if you’re already on the West Bank and hungry for more, both offer a quieter, more intimate perspective on ancient Egyptian life—and death.
Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut (Deir el-Bahari)
Opening Hours: Daily, 6:00 AM – 5:00 PM
Entrance Fee: 440 EGP (adult), 220 EGP (student)
If ancient Egyptian history had a breakout star, it would be Hatshepsut. She wasn’t just a queen—she ruled as Pharaoh, one of the very few women in Egypt’s long history to do so. And she didn’t just rule; she flourished. Hatshepsut reigned during the 18th Dynasty (c. 1479–1458 BCE), a time of peace, prosperity, and ambitious building projects—including her own spectacular mortuary temple at Deir el-Bahari.
Set against the dramatic cliffs of the West Bank, Hatshepsut’s temple is one of the most visually striking structures in all of Egypt. The façade is a series of elegant colonnaded terraces, rising in symmetrical harmony and connected by long ramps. It doesn’t feel heavy like many temples do—it feels deliberate, graceful, almost modern.
The temple was designed to honor Amun-Ra, the chief god of Thebes (closely associated with Pharaohs), as well as Hatshepsut herself. Inside, you’ll find shrines, chapels, and reliefs depicting everything from Hatshepsut’s divine birth (a bold PR move to justify her rule) to her famous expedition to Punt, a far-off land rich in incense and exotic goods. These scenes are vibrant and beautifully preserved, giving insight into a reign defined more by diplomacy and innovation than war.
Beyond its artistic and architectural splendor, the temple stands as a testament to Hatshepsut’s political genius. She often portrayed herself in masculine form—wearing the traditional kilt and false beard of a pharaoh—to legitimize her authority in a male-dominated world. And for nearly two decades, it worked.
The site can get busy with tour groups, especially mid-morning, but if you arrive early or late in the day, you may get to stand in the echoing courtyards with just the wind for company. And that’s when the place really speaks.
You’re also likely to encounter one of Egypt’s little quirks here. In some sections of the temple, you may see signs asking licensed tour guides not to explain certain areas. Why? So that the men stationed in those spots are the only ones “available” to provide explanations—and can then demand a tip. Just a friendly reminder: in Egypt, if anyone does anything for you—ever—they’ll probably expect a tip. Plan accordingly (meaning always carry small bills).
Ramesseum (Mortuary Temple of Ramesses II)
Opening Hours: Daily, 6:00 AM – 5:00 PM
Entrance Fee: 180 EGP (adult), 90 EGP (student)
I remember reading Ozymandias by Percy Bysshe Shelley for the first time and immediately feeling a chill down my spine. So, for me, a visit to the Ramesseum delivered one of my most poetic travel moments. This was the mortuary temple of Ramesses II, the pharaoh who never saw a wall he didn’t want to carve his name into, and once boasted the largest seated statue in Egypt—about 17 meters tall, weighing nearly 1,000 tons.
Today, that once-majestic statue lies shattered on the ground. A head here, a torso there. All of it silent, sun-bleached, and partially buried in sand. Which brings us back to Shelley’s poem:
“Look on my Works, ye Mighty, and despair!”
Nothing beside remains. Round the decay
Of that colossal Wreck, boundless and bare…
If that poem is burned into your soul, this place will hit you hard—a real goosebump site, full of eerie resonance and ancient ego turned to dust. If not, well... it’s mostly a pile of fallen columns and broken statues, and your time might be better spent elsewhere.
The temple grounds themselves are relatively quiet, rarely crowded, and a nice detour if you’re already exploring the West Bank. But ultimately, whether you visit depends on whether a ruined statue in the sand sounds like a cultural pilgrimage… or just a sunbaked pile of rubble.
Colossi of Memnon
Opening Hours: Open 24/7
Entrance Fee: Free
Standing guard over a wide open plain on the West Bank, the Colossi of Memnon are two massive stone statues of Pharaoh Amenhotep III, carved over 3,400 years ago. Each statue stands about 18 meters (60 feet) tall, once flanking the entrance to Amenhotep’s mortuary temple—which, for the most part, no longer exists. Time, Nile floods, and looting reduced the original complex to little more than scattered stones… and these two very photogenic giants.
To be honest, they’re not particularly impressive compared to what else Luxor has to offer. They don’t have detailed carvings like Karnak. They don’t glow with color like the tombs. But they are easy to access, free to visit, and likely part of your itinerary whether you ask for it or not. Most drivers automatically pull over here for a quick photo op, and you only need about 5–10 minutes to take it all in.
So while they may not be a showstopper, the Colossi are a solid little bonus stop—a pair of ancient sentinels standing quietly at the edge of history, keeping watch over a kingdom long gone.
Medinet Habu (Mortuary Temple of Ramesses III)
Opening Hours: Daily, 6:00 AM – 5:00 PM
Entrance Fee: 220 EGP (adult), 110 EGP (student)
Of all the temples on the West Bank, Medinet Habu might just be the most underrated—and one of the most rewarding. Built by Ramesses III, Egypt’s last truly powerful New Kingdom pharaoh, this mortuary temple combines massive scale with remarkable preservation, making it an absolute must-visit in Luxor.
From the moment you approach the front façade, it’s clear this temple means business. The entrance is framed by a towering mudbrick enclosure wall and an enormous first pylon carved with scenes of the king smiting his enemies—classic Ramesses behavior. But step inside, and things get even better. The hypostyle halls are rich with vivid reliefs, and the colors in many parts of the temple remain surprisingly intact. You’ll find detailed scenes depicting religious ceremonies, military triumphs, and even a depiction of the Sea Peoples, mysterious raiders whose defeat helped secure Ramesses III’s legacy.
What sets Medinet Habu apart isn’t just the artwork or architecture—it’s the atmosphere. It’s usually far less crowded than other major sites, which means you can take your time. Wander through pillared halls and quiet courtyards. Admire the carvings without elbowing your way past a dozen tour groups. Let the place breathe.
In short, Medinet Habu offers the grandeur of Karnak with the quiet of a hidden gem. If you’re deciding what to prioritize on the West Bank, put this one near the top of your list. It was one of our absolute favorites.
Optional Side Trips: Going Further Afield
If you’ve seen all Luxor has to offer and still want more (or you’re just deeply committed to maximizing your ancient temple quota), you can hire a car and driver for a longer day trip—or a stopover on your way to or from Aswan. Several major temples lie along the Nile between Luxor and Aswan and can be visited with some advance planning.
Temple of Khnum (in Esna)
Just about an hour’s drive south of Luxor, this small temple is partially buried in the modern town of Esna, making it feel more like an excavation in progress than a polished tourist site. But what remains—particularly the ceiling of beautifully painted astronomical scenes—is striking. It’s a quick stop, but a meaningful one for those interested in Greco-Roman era temples.
Edfu Temple
Further south lies Edfu, home to one of the best-preserved temples in all of Egypt. Dedicated to the falcon-headed god Horus, the temple was built during the Ptolemaic period and includes massive pylons, intact roofed halls, and deeply inscribed reliefs. It's a favorite among many travelers, especially those who appreciate symmetry and a good mythological backstory.
Kom Ombo Temple
Just a bit farther is Kom Ombo, a rare double temple dedicated to two gods: the falcon-headed Horus the Elder and the crocodile god Sobek. One side of the temple is mirrored for each god, and the attached Crocodile Museum (featuring dozens of mummified crocs) is an oddly delightful bonus.
These sites can be visited individually as day trips, or as part of a road journey to Aswan. They offer a great way to stretch your time in Upper Egypt—especially if you’re trying to fill in historical gaps or avoid doubling back. Just be aware that it’s a long day of driving, so plan ahead, bring water and snacks, and embrace the slower rhythm of the road along the Nile.
Strategy Notes: Planning Your Luxor Itinerary
You could cover most of these sights in Luxor in four days—three if you’re the go-go-go type who thinks vacation is a competitive sport. But don’t underestimate the combination of sun, sand, and sensory overload. These ruins are big. The stories behind them are bigger. And it’s hot. Like, hair-dryer-to-the-face hot. We actually stayed six days, which gave us a rest day in the middle, and another day to go back to some of our favorites to re-photograph them.
Here’s a sample pacing that would work well for most people:
Arrival Day: Take it easy. Walk the Corniche along the Nile. Breathe in the history. Then hit Luxor Temple about 90 minutes before sunset so you can see it both in daylight and beautifully lit at night.
Day Two: Wake up early and head to Karnak Temple right when it opens (6:00 AM). Try to finish by noon—trust me on this. Spend the hot afternoon inside one of the air-conditioned museums (Luxor Museum or the Mummification Museum) where you can cool off and deepen your appreciation for what you just saw.
Days Three & Four: Devote these to the West Bank. There’s a lot to see, and distances between sites mean you’ll want to plan for two 6–8 hour trips if you want to hit the major sights—Valley of the Kings, Hatshepsut’s Temple, Medinet Habu, and so on. Try to start early and be back by early afternoon if you're visiting during the hot season.
On the East Bank, you can mostly get around on foot, by Uber, or even horse carriage.
For the West Bank, you’ll want to hire a driver. We first looked at Get Your Guide, then checked with our hotel. Their quote was about 30% cheaper, so we booked through them—and ended up with a fantastic driver we used for all our sightseeing and even our transfer to the train station when we left Luxor.
In short: don’t rush, plan your days around the sun, and pay attention to logistics. You’ll see more, sweat less, and leave with fewer regrets and far more memories.
Luxor isn’t subtle. It doesn’t whisper its history—it carves it into cliffs, stacks it in stone, paints it in color that somehow still clings after thousands of years. It overwhelms you in the best possible way, not just with grandeur, but with the realization that you’re walking in the footsteps of gods, queens, and grave robbers. And while the logistics may take a little planning, the payoff is something unforgettable. Because travel, at its best, doesn’t just show you the past—it lets you feel its weight, its wonder, and its heat radiating through the soles of your shoes.
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